Marnie the Misfit Mermaid
This Free Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern is designed using worsted weight yarn. I have intentionally left her face blank because I think she is cuter this way.
- This post contains affiliate links. You can click on any yarn or material highlighted to purchase
Vanna’s Choice- Worsted Weight Yarn from Lion Brand Yarns
for body, flesh color of choice, I used Beige
fin color of choice, I used Medium Blue and Scarlet
Unique and Textures for hair (Landscape would also work well) in colors of choice, I used Oceania and Potpourri (Unique) and Mountain Dawn (Textures)
poly fill/ stuffing
stitch markers (2)
4.0mm (G) hook – I used my Grape Candy Shop Furls Crochet to make this Marnie the Misfit Mermaid
not important with this project
- Each round begins with a ch 1, unless otherwise noted.
- Ch 1 is not considered the first sc, to join each round sl st into the first sc, skipping over the ch 1
- Unless otherwise noted, each decrease (sc2tog) will be placed in the back, in the last set of sts (arms and tail). I recommend using an invisible sc decrease as explained here
- All rounds of body are joined, rounds in arms and part of the tail (notated in pattern) are not joined and are made in a spiral, use stitch markers
- Video tutorial for working in joined rounds vs working in a spiral here
- The pattern will specify times to add poly fill
- Hair is attached in the same manner as you would attach fringe to any project, for best results do not make each strand the same exact length and attach asymmetrically
sc – single crochet, sl st – slip stitch, blo – back loop only, hdc – half double crochet, dc – double crochet, tr – treble crochet
sc2tog– single crochet two together (invisible decrease tutorial here) insert hook into first st, yarn over and pull through st (two loops on hook), insert hook into the next st, yarn over and pull through st (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook
Round 1: Beginning with main color Ch 2, 8sc in first chain, sl st into first sc to join into ring <8>
Round 2: 2sc in each st around <16>
Round 3: *Sc in next st, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around <24>
Round 4: Sc in each st around <24>
Round 5: *Sc in next 2sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around <32>
Round 6: Sc in each st around <32>
Round 7: *Sc in next 3sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around <40>
Rounds 8-14: Sc in each st around <40>
Round 15: *Sc in next 3sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around <32>
Round 16: Sc in each st around <32>
Round 17: *Sc in next 2sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around <24>
Round 18: *Sc next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around <16>
Rounds 19-20: Sc in each st around <16>
Round 21: 2sc in each st around <32>
Rounds 22-24: Sc in each st around <32>
Rounds 25: Sc in next 4 sts, [ch 4, skip 4sts], sc in next 11sts, [ch 4, skip 4sts], sc in remaining 9 sts
Round 26: Sc in next 4sts (place st marker in last st), *sc in blo of next 4chs **, sc next 11 sts (place st marker in first and last st), repeat from * to **, sc in remaining 9sts (place st marker in first st). Pull up long loop and cut main color, do not sl st to join (you will join round when joining next color for fin section)
ARMS– arms are made in a spiral and rounds are not joined, mark first st of each round to keep row count
Round 1: Attach yarn by sl st into any st of opening just made (preferably in the back), sc in each st and in marked sts <10>
Rounds 2-6: Sc in each st around <10>
Rounds 7-10: Sc in each st around, to last 2sts, sc2tog <each row will decrease by one st, round 10 will be 6sts> pull yarn on hook through the loop, using yarn needle weave tail out through next st and in through next st around, pull tight, secure, fasten and push needle through to inside of arm, anchor st to secure and fasten off.
Repeat for other arm. Fill both arms
Bust and Tail– Change to fin color on sl st of final body round- fill as you go for entire section, ignore marked sts from when arms were made.
Round 1: Sc in next 10sts, *hdc in one row above, [dc in two rows above]2x, hdc in one row above**, sc in next st, repeat from * to **, sc in remaining 13sts <32>
Rounds 2-3: Sc in next 10 sts, *hdc one row above in next 4 sts**, sc in next st, repeat from * to **, sc in remaining 13sts <32>
FROM NOW TO END– you will be working in spirals, spiral rounds are not joined, mark first st of each round to keep row count
Rounds 4-7: Sc in each st around <32>
Rounds 8-15: Sc in each st till two sts remain, sc2tog <each round will decrease by one st, 24sc at the end of round 15>
Rounds 16-17: Sc in each st around <24>
Be sure Tail is completely stuffed
Round 18: *sc in next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around <16>
Round 19: *sc next 2sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around <12>
Round 20: *sc next st, sc2tog, repeat from * around <8>
Fill last 3 rounds as needed
Fin – depending on how your spirals worked out on the tail, your fin placement may be slightly different than mine (below). You will want to have 4sc sts in front and 4sc stitches in back with the ch10 on each side.
Round 1: *Sc in the next 4sts, ch 11, sc back down the chain <10>, repeat from *
Round 2: Sc2tog 2x, **working up the ch10, sc in next 2sts, hdc in next st, dc in next 2sts, 2tr in next st, dc in the next 2sts, hdc in the next st, sc in the next st, ch 2 at the top of the ch10 and sl st into the first ch just made, working back down the ch10, sc in the first st, hdc in the next st, dc in next 2sts, 2tr in the next st, dc in next 2sts, hdc in next st, sc in next 2sts, sc2tog 2x on round and repeat from **
Pull yarn through loop on hook, attach needle, going from back to front insert hook in first st and coordinating st on front, going from back to front insert hook in next st and corresponding st on back.
Working with back of mermaid facing, head down, *from back to front, insert hook on first st on inside of fin and going from front to back insert hook in first st on inside second fin. Repeat from * for second and third inside sts on fins.
Lorene Eppolite is the designer behind Cre8tion Crochet and has been designing since October 2012. She loves to create fun and easy crochet accessories and garments and strives to make her designs to be achievable for any skill level. Just because it is easy, doesn’t mean it can’t be beautiful. Lorene was named one of the Top Ten Designers by The Yarn Box in 2012, by AllFreeCrochet in 2013, 2014 and 2015. Lorene has many patterns published by Red Heart Yarns.