Super Fun Edging
Quickly fall in love with the ease, style, and comfort of the Sightseer Cropped Top. Its simple raglan style construction and wide ribbed waist will provide a great fit with sleeves that are easily customizable to your desired length. With the Sightseer Cropped Top, you can also play around with color for a unique and customized top. The Sightseer Cropped Top has form-fitting shaping that can be customized. The unique slanted edging adds a fun twist, but the pattern also includes instructions for straight ribbing.
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Pattern Details
YARN
3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) skeins of Hopscotch by Red Heart Yarns– Sample shown in Kickball
HOOK
K/6.5 Furls Hook- Lorene used her Blue Odyssey
NOTIONS
Scissors
Yarn needle
DIFFICULTY
Easy
GAUGE
15sts and 10 rows= 6″
TO FIT
XS (S, M, L, 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x)
follows CYC Standard Sizes- for more information click here
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
see schematic
NOTES
- Please check your gauge before beginning.
- Pattern is worked top-down in joined rounds with no turning.
- Pattern is written in size XS with changes for S, M, L, 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x and 5x in parenthesis.
- Stitch counts are shown in <brackets> at the end of rows where a change takes place.
- The ch 3 at the beginning of each row will count as the first dc. This means that the next dc you make should be placed in the 2nd st of the row.
- Ch 3 can be substituted with a CSDS (see OPTIONAL SPECIAL STITCHES).
- Pattern includes instructions for how to customize for different options.
STITCH GUIDE
Ch(s) – Chain(s), sc – single crochet, dc – double crochet, Rnd(s) – Round(s), sl st – slip stitch, sp(s) – space(s), st(s) – stitch(es), blo – back loop only
SPECIAL STITCHES
Fdc- Foundation Double Crochet- tutorial
Ch 4 (counts as the first fdc),Yarn over (YO) and insert hook in 4th chain from hook, *YO and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), YO and pull through 1 loop creating a chain st, (this is an important step but easy to forget), YO and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops remaining), YO and pull through last two loops on hook. This completes the second fdc (remember your ch-4 counted as the first fdc). To stitch the next fdc, YO and insert the hook into the chain made in the 2nd fdc and repeat from * until the desired sts are achieved
Dc2tog- Double Crochet Two Together
Yarn over (YO), insert hook into first st, YO and draw up a loop, (three loops on hook), YO and pull through first two loops (two loops remaining on hook), YO, insert hook in next st, YO and draw up a loop (four loops on hook), YO, pull through first two loops on hook, YO and pull through remaining three loops.
OPTIONAL SPECIAL STITCHES
CSDC- Chainless Starting Double Crochet- tutorial
If working in rows, turn work. If working in rounds spin hook completely around, making a twist in the loop. Pull up a loop to the height of a normal dc. YO with the loop so that the hook is behind the loop. Insert the hook into the first st of row. Complete a normal dc (YO and draw through st (3 loops on hook), YO and draw through first two loops on hook. YO and draw through last two loops on hook).
SDC- Standing Double Crochet- tutorial
Begin with slip knot on hook, YO, insert hook in stitch, and work like a normal dc (YO, draw through first two loops, YO, draw through last two loops).
Pattern
Rnd 1 (RS): Fdc 62 (66, 70, 70, 70, 74, 74, 78, 82), sl st into the top of the first fdc to join into a circle– the open space left at the join will be seamed closed and stitched over during finishing.
X-Small, Small and Medium ONLY
Rnd 2: Ch 3 or CSDS (counts as 1 dc here and throughout), dc in each of next 9 (10, 11, xx, xx, xx, xx, xx, xx) sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of next 9 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of the next 20 (22, 24, xx, xx, xx, xx, xx, xx) sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of the next 9 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of the last 10 (11, 12, xx, xx, xx, xx, xx, xx) sts, sl st in top of beg ch 3 or CSDS. <66 (70, 74, xx, xx, xx, xx, xx, xx) sts and 4 ch-1 sps> – mark the top of the sts where you placed the four raglan corners, these will be used later for finishing the neckline but can be ignored for now
Large, 1x, 2x, 3x, 4x and 5x ONLY
Rnd 2: Ch 3 or CSDS (counts as 1 dc here and throughout), dc in each of next xx (xx, xx, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14) sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of next 9 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of the next xx (xx, xx, 24, 24, 26, 26, 28, 30) sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of the next 9 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of the last xx (xx, xx, 12, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15) sts, sl st in top of beg ch 3 or CSDS. <xx (xx, xx, 82, 82, 86, 86, 90, 94) sts and 4 ch-1 sps> – mark the top of the sts where you placed the four raglan corners, these will be used later for finishing the neckline but can be ignored for now
Next 0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 4) Rnds: Ch 3 or CSDS, * dc in each st to ch-1 sp, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp; rep from * 3 more times, dc in each st to end, sl st in top of beg ch 3 or CSDS. <xx (xx, xx, xx, 97, 117, 133, 153, 157) sts and 4 ch-1 corner sps>
Next 8 (9, 10, 11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 12) Rnds: Ch 3 or CSDS, * dc in each st to ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp; rep from * 3 more times, dc in each st to end, sl st in top of beg ch 3 or CSDC. <129 (141, 153, 169, 185, 205, 221, 241, 253) sts and 4 ch-1 corner sps>
SEPERATE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES
Rnd 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19): Ch 3 or CSDS, *dc in each st to ch-1 sp, dc in the ch-1 sp, working off the base of the last dc, fdc 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4) time(s) (these sts will be referred to as underarm sts in the sleeve section of the pattern), begin an additional fdc as follows; working into the ch of the previous fdc, YO and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), insert hook into the next ch-1 sp (skipping the unworked sts in between) yarn over and pull through the ch -1 sp (four loops on hook), YO and pull through first three loops on hook (two loops remaining), YO again and pull through last two loops on hook; repeat from * one time, dc in each st to end, sl st in top of beg ch 3 or CSDS. <78 (88, 96, 104, 112, 124, 134, 146, 156)> Mark the 4 sts placed in the ch-1 sps. The unworked sts will become the sleeves.
At this point, you can try your sweater on to make sure it fits well. If it is too tight you can pull out the previous row and add more increase rounds before completing the previous row again.
Next 4 (0, 1, 2, 4, 1, 0, 0, 0) Rnds: Ch 3 or CSDC, dc in each st around, sl st in top of beg ch 3 or CSDS.
If you want to make your body section longer, instead of a cropped top, add rows evenly as desired. Do not follow the 2 decrease rows below. If you want the top to go past your hips, then you may need to add sts to accommodate. The edging (as written) will add an additional 3” to the hem. If you want your design to match the sample shown complete the two rows below.
Next 8 (12, 11, 9, 7, 9, 8, 1, 0) Rnds: Ch 3 or CSDC, dc2tog one time, dc in remaining sts around, sl st in top of beg ch3 or CSDC. <70 (76, 85, 95, 105, 115, 126, 145, xxx) sts>
Next 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 2, 9, 10) Rnds: Ch 3 or CSDC, dc2tog one time, dc in each st until 3 sts remain, dc2tog one time, dc in last st, sl st in top of beg ch3 or CSDC. <70 (76, 85, 95, 105, 115, 122, 127, 136) sts>
EDGING
I have edged this design in a way I have never done before. It is a little counter-intuitive, as a lot of it is done in reverse. You can find a video tutorial here. The last row of the previous section will be referred to as the ‘base row’.
Row 1: Yarn over, insert hook in next st of the base row, *YO and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), YO and pull through 1 loop creating a chain st, YO and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops remaining), YO and pull through last two loops on hook (first edging fdc made). To stitch the next edging fdc, YO and insert the hook into the chain made in the first edging fdc and repeat from * five times more. 6 edging fdc made. **YO and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), YO and pull through 1 loop creating a chain st, YO and pull through all three remaining loops (first edging fhdc made). To stitch the next edging fhdc, YO and insert the hook into the chain made in the first edging fdc and repeat from ** five times more. Ch 1, do not turn.
The subsequent rows will be performed in two parts. In the first section you are working in the front loops only, backwards along the row you just completed. In the second section you will be working back towards the bottom hem in the back loops of the same stitches you just worked on the edging rows.
Row 2a: Working backwards; insert the hook, in the front loop only, of the stitch you just completed, yarn over and pull through both the stitch and the loop on the hook (reverse slip stitch made), *continue working backward, insert your hook, in the front loop only, of the next st, yarn over and pull through both the stitch and the loop on the hook, repeat from * to end for a total of 12 reverse slip sts. When your reach the base row, repeat from * two times more along the base row.
Row 2b: Working in the normal direction; ignore the two reverse slip stitches along the base row and work only into the unused back loops of the edging stitches, dc in the next 6 dc, hdc in the next 6 hdc, ch 1, do not turn.
Repeat rows 2a and 2b until all the sts on the base row are worked. For sizes M, L, 1x, 2x and 4x you will need to work 3 sl sts along the base row on the last repeat. Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming.
Turn your work inside out and seam the first and last edging row together. I prefer the mattress seam.
SLEEVES
In part one I instructed you to mark specific sts but, you can remove the st markers as we won’t be using them for reference after all.
Rnd 1: Join yarn with a ch 3 or standing double crochet (see optional special stitches), dc in each st around, sl st in top of beg ch3 or SDC. <30 (33, 35, 39, 43, 47, 52, 56, 59) sts>
Next 0 (2, 2, 2, 1, 2, 3, 3, 3) Rnds: Ch 3 or CSDC, dc2tog one time, dc in each st until 3 sts remain, dc2tog one time, dc in the last st, sl st in top of beg ch3 or CSDC. <30 (29, 31, 35, 41, 43, 46, 50, 53) sts>
Next 2 (0, 0, 1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 0) Rnds: Ch 3 or CSDC, dc2tog one time, dc in each st, sl st in top of beg ch3 or CSDC. <28 (29, 31, 34, 40, 42, 46, 50, 53) sts>
Next 2 (2, 2, 1, 3, 2, 2, 3, 3) Rnds: Ch 3 or CSDC, dc in each st, sl st in top of beg ch3 or CSDC.
This gives you a total row count of 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) on the sleeves, if you would like to add length to the sleeves then you can add rows as desired, decreasing as necessary.
SLEEVE EDGING
Follow directions for body edging except you will be doing 2 fdc/dc and 2 fhdc/hdc for a total of 4 sts on the sleeve edging.
NECK FINISHING
Along the back; join yarn in any of the sts prior to the opening on the fdc row
Next 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 3) Rnds: Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in each st to the first marked st, (you will be stitching the opening left on the fdc row closed at this time), sc2tog over the marked st and the next st, move the st marker up to this st, *sc in each st to next marked st, sc2tog over marked st and the next st, repeat from * around, sc in each remaining st, sl st in the first sc (skipping over the beginging ch-1) to join. <61 (65, 65, 65, 65, 69, 69, 69, 69)>
Next 1 (1, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0) Rnds: Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in each st around, sl st in the first sc (skipping over the beginning ch-1) to join. <61 (65, xx, xx, xx, xx, xx, xx, xx)
Next Rnd: Ch 1, working backwards, reverse sl st in the front loop only of each st around the neckline, sl st in the first sl st (skipping over the beginning ch-1) to join. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends, block if necessary and wear your new ‘cre8tion’ proudly!
If you like this design you may also like Laney’s V-back Sweater or Mary’s Cardigan.
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Lorene Eppolite is the designer behind Cre8tion Crochet. She has been designing since October 2012. She loves to create fun and easy crochet accessories and garments. Lorene strives to make her designs to be achievable for any skill level. Just because it is easy, doesn’t mean it can’t be beautiful.
