Fitted Slippers Crochet Pattern
I’m always excited when I have another free pattern to offer but I’m really proud of this one… maybe because when I first started making this it was the first time I had ever attempted a slipper or maybe it is because I had so many starts trying to perfect this cre8tion. I believe I have done it… I hope you agree.
This pattern is probably best for someone who has not just started out since there are quite a few increases and decreases and it is very detailed, but if you follow close attention and learn the necessary stitches then I’m sure anyone could make it. As always feel free to email me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you have any questions or need help.
I created this pattern because after following a slipper pattern I recently came across, I just wasn’t happy with the way it was turning out. A quick slipper pattern search proved to be more of the same. I wanted a slipper with a defined heel. Some other benefits to my pattern are that the toe and heel are more reinforced, it has an actual sole and sides, and the slipper holds its shape. I know that when I sell my items or give them away as gifts that I want them to look like their intended use. I just didn’t like the way the other slippers looked when they were not on my feet. My slipper is also made in one piece and does not require a fasten off except for at the end. And as an added bonus they can be easily adjusted to make different slipper sizes.
This pattern was designed for womens size 7-8 but can be easily adapted to fit any size foot… see note at end of pattern for size changes and decoration ideas.
Check out this post more slipper options for other designs and information on making these slippers
Skill Level: Intermediate
Abbreviations and stitches required:
- magic circle- magic circle/ring (click on link for a tutorial on the magic circle/ring)Holding the tail of the beginning of the yarn in the palm of your less dominant hand with the excess towards the bac, wrap the yarn around 3 of your fingers (forefinger, middle and ring fingers) towards the back, on your less dominant hand. Wrap it around to the front and cross it over your forefinger, pinch it between the top of your finger and your thumb. Be sure that the tail is in the front of your hand (in your palm) and that the yarn crosses over your forefinger on top with the excess yarn towards the back. Slipping the hook between the backs of your fingers and the yarn “circle”, hook the excess yarn with the hook and pull it through the circle. Pinch the “circle” where the yarn is crossed over between your thumb and forefinger. I hold the excess yarn taut between my forefinger and middle fingers at this point. If you are doing a sc hook the excess yarn again on top, outside of the circle and pull through your loop, this creates a slip stitch on your circle. You can now continue to stitch around the circle to complete your magic ring. For single crochet insert hook through the circle to the back, yo and pull through, yo on the top outside of the circle and pull through both loops. After finishing the required amount of stitches, use the tail to pull the circle tight and sl st into the 1st st. Pull tight and continue on to round. Since we are doing only sc in this pattern I will save the rest of the magic circle lesson for later… (post coming soon with lots of helpful hints and detailed pictures of stiches). Check out my Small Flower Pattern for detailed pics of how to do the magic circle.
- ch- chain.
- sc- insert hook, yo <2 loops on hook> yo, pull through both loops
- hdc- yo, insert hook, yo, pull through <3 loops on hook> yo, pull through all three loops
- dc- yo, insert hook, yo, pull through <3 loops on hook> yo, pull through 1st 2 loops on hook, yo <two loops on hook> yo, pull through both loops on hook.
- Sl st- insert hook, yo, pull through, <2 loops on hook> pull 1st loop through 2nd loop
In SC- insert hook, yo, pull through <2 loops on hook> insert hook, yo, pull through <3 loops on hook> yo, pull through all three loops
In DC- insert hook, yo, pull through <2 loops on hook> insert hook, yo, pull through <3 loops on hook> yo, pull through first 2 loops, yo, pull through last 2 loops
- dec3tog= insert hook, yo, pull through <2 loops on hook> insert hook, yo, pull through <3 loops on hook> insert hook, yo, pull through <4 loops on hook> yo, pull through all four loops
Size 4.0mm hook
Medium or worsted weight yarn (I used Vanna’s Choice but RedHeart would work just as well)
one skein of Vanna’s will make one pair of slippers. You can make 3 pairs with one skein of Red Heart
Tapestry needle for weaving in end
4 stitch markers- optional
-Be sure not to make your sl st’s to tight in entire pattern- but they must not be loose during the final edging.
-IF you have obvious seams you can “hide” this by making the seems be on the inside of either slipper… at the end of Rnd 7 the directions say ch 2 and turn. Make one this way and make the other one by doing, ch 2 and continue to crochet in that direction. This way your seams will be on opposite sides and you can make it the inside of each finished slipper. The way I avoid seams in this project is to NOT chain 2 to start my rounds. I simply make the dc in the 1st space and sl st into it at the end of each round to complete the round. You can see in my picture at the end of Rnd 6 that the seam is barely noticeable.
-For a more contoured look you can make the sides of the slipper indent by intermingling hdc or sc along sides and keeping dc along the back.
Rnd 1- Magic circle 5sc, join with sl st
Rnd 2- 2sc in each st, join with sl st <10sc>
Rnd 3- 2dc in each st, join with sl st <20dc>
Rnd 4- dc in each st, with 2dc in every 4th st* repeat all the way around, join with sl st <25dc>
Rnd 5 thru 6- dc in every st, join with sl st <25dc> ch 2 turn*
Rw 7- turning ch counts as 1st dc, 12 more dc <13dc total>
*From here one it is assumed that 1st dc in each row is the turning ch 2 from previous row.
Rw 8- 13 dc
Rw 9- 5dc, dec2tog in 6th st, dc to end <12dc total>
Rw 10- 4dc, dec2tog in 5th st, dc to end <11dc total>
Rw 11- 4dc, dec2tog in 5th, dc to end <10dc>
Rw 12- 10dc
Rw 13 thru 14- 10 sc
Rw 15- sc in each st with 2 sc in 5th st <11sc>
Rw 16- sc in each st with 2sc in 6th st <12sc>
Rw 17- sc in each st with 2sc in 7th st <13>
Rw 18 thru 19- 13sc
Rw 19- sc in every stitch BUT sl st instead in sts 7&8 <13 total stitches( 11sc, 2sl st)>
Rw 20- sc in every st BUT sl st instead into sts 6,7,8 &9 <13 total stitches( 9sc, 4sl st)>
Rw 21- sc in every st BUT sl st instead into sts 4-10 <13 total stitches( 6sc, 7 sl st)>
at the end of this row you will have a “u” shaped indent in top of rows
Rw 22- sc in every st BUT dec2tog for sts 3&4, 5&6, 7&8, 9&10, 11&12 <8sc>
Rw 23- sc in every st BUT dec2tog for sts 2&3, 4&5, 6&7 <5sc>
Rw 24- with only 5 sts left you will dec3tog and dec2tog- this will give you your heel and complete basic slipper sole and toe shape.
2nd Rnd 1 (row 25)- Sc around entire outside perimeter of slipper, you will be doing this blindly but it will be approx. 1sc for every sc st and 2sc for every dc st that you are stitching in to. Be sure to insert hook under at least two strands of yarn so that you don’t get “holes” around the stitches, but try not to go through too many strands or it will look sloppy.
-Before moving on to next step determine these two points- 1) The most narrow part of the slipper (which should be between the last dc row and 1st sc row of sole) AND 2) the desired width of toe section, paying mind to the two corners where toes meet sides. In each subsequent round you will be dec2tog at these 4 places. It may be easier to mark this points with stitch markers.
2nd Rnd 2 (row 26)- dc around back and sides of slipper, at most narrow part dec2tog. Skip ONE stitch right before the stitch where you will dec2tog at 1st corner of toe section. Sc across toe section and skip ONE stitch right before where you will dec2tog in 2nd corner of toe section. (*if you can’t figure that step out or where to skip the one step then just dec2tog in corner, the finished look will only be slightly different and will still look nice)
2nd Rnd 3 thru 4 (row 27-28)- dc around back and sides of slipper, at most narrow part dec2tog (starting the dec2tog stitch in the stich that was created with the dec2tog of the previous row. Dec2tog at 1st corner of toe section, sc across toe section, dec2tog at 2nd corner.
2nd Rnd 5 (row 29)- sl st around entire perimeter of slipper and fasten off. Finish off beginning magic circle by weaving in ends.
You have now completed one slipper… repeat steps for 2nd slipper. Embellish any way you like… some ideas are:
-Run ribbon through perimeter and tie in cute bow in front
-Attach a flower (or two or three) to top of toe- small flower pattern
-Make into an Owl face by adding two eyes (either crocheted or buttons) and a beak
-Add buttons to top of toe
Or you can use two different colors in any combo, some idea’s are:
-Make toe and sole one color and sides and back another color (change colors after Rw 26)
-If you make an Owl face to finish then it looks cute if you make the toe one color and the rest of slipper another color (change color after Rnd 7)
For every shoe size decrease (6-7, 5-6 etc) simply decrease 2 stitches in rnds 5-7, and decrease one round completely for every shoe size lower (remember to subtract a 1 from every subsequent row when finishing pattern). Also decrease 1 stitch in all subsequent rows (1 stitch for each shoe size lower) You may also need to omit Rw 12 completely (if you do then you will need to subtract another 1 from each row for the rest of the pattern)
For every shoe size increase (8-9, 9-10, 11-12) add two stitches to rnds 5-7, increase one row (so you will have rows 5-8 and remember to add a 1 to every subsequent row when finishing pattern). You will also add 1 stitch for every shoe size increase in the rest of the rows. You may also need to repeat Rw 12 (also remember to add a 1 to every subsequent row when finishing pattern)
The best way to change size is to measure to your own foot. Email me with any questions at email@example.com