Color Blocking and Style!
This design is composed in a top down/raglan style and does not require any seaming. This tee is very lightweight and perfect for the warmer months of the year. You can use as many colors as you like to customize this design. It would also be quite easy to customize this design in many different ways.
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PATTERN DETAILS
YARN
Bernat Softee Baby (120 g/333 yds per skein) or comparable DK weight-3 yarn
Color A – Grey Heather 1(1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skeins or 315(355, 400, 450, 505, 565, 653, 710) yards
Color B – Flax 2(2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4) skeins or 560(630, 705, 790, 885, 995, 1115, 1250) yards
Total Yardage for Pattern:
3(3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) skeins or 875(985, 1105, 1240, 1390, 1560, 1960) yards
MATERIALS
I/5.5mm hook – I always use Furls Crochet Hooks
Use promo code cre8tion15 for 15% off your entire order
OTHER NOTIONS
Scissors
Yarn Needle
Stitch Markers
DIFFICULTY
Intermediate
FINISHED SIZE(S)
See Schematic Below
GAUGE – pay close attention to height gauge for this design
17 sts and 13 rows = 5″ square
GAUGE PATTERN- using K/6.5mm hook
Row 1: FH-hdc (to a minimum of 6″ wide), turn
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as first st), herringbone hdc in the first st, herringbone hdc in each st to end, turn
Repeat Row 2 to a minimum of 6″ tall. Measure your 5″ square within this.
STITCH GUIDE
ch(s) – chain(s), sc – single crochet, hdc- half double crochet, st(s) – stitch(es), RS – right side, WS – wrong side, sl st – slip stitch
SPECIAL STITCHES
H-hdc – Herringbone HDC Video Tutorial
YO, insert hook in st, YO and draw through the st and the first loop on the hook (two loops remain on hook), YO and draw through two remaining loops on hook. Be sure not to pull the first part of the stitch too tightly.
H-hdc2tog – Herringbone HDC Two Together Video Tutorial
YO, insert hook in first t, YO and draw through the st and the first loop on the hook (two loops remain on hook), insert hook in next st, YO and draw through the st and the first st on the hook (two loops remain on hook), YO and draw through remaining two loops on hook.
OPTIONAL SPECIAL STITCHES
FH-hdc – Foundation Herringbone Half Double Crochet Video Tutorial
Chain 2 (does not count as a st). YO and insert hook in 2nd chain from hook, *YO and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), YO and pull through 1 loop creating a chain (this is an important step but easy to forget), pull the same st through the next loop on the hook (two loops remain), YO and pull through remaining two loops on hook. This completes the first foundation herringbone half double crochet. To stitch the next fh-hdc, YO and insert the hook into the chain made in the previous fh-hdc and repeat from * to desired length or until the desired amount of sts are achieved.
NOTES
- Ch 2 does not count as the first st.
- Pattern is worked in turned rounds.
- Pattern is written in size small with changes for M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X and 5X in parentheses.
- Stitch counts appear in <brackets> in any row where a change takes place from the previous row.
- Ch spaces are not included in st count.
PATTERN
Yoke
Rnd 1 (RS): Fhdc or FH-hdc (see optional special stitches) 54(54, 58, 66, 70, 74, 78, 82) sts, join the first st to the last with a sl st to create a circle, turn work. The top of the round will have a gap after you sl st it together, we will correct this during the final edging.
Rnd 2 (WS): Ch 2, H-hdc in first st, H-hdc next 9(9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) sts, [H-hdc 2x, ch 2, H-hdc 2x] (first raglan corner made – mark this ch-2) in next st, *H-hdc next 5 sts, [H-hdc 2x, ch 2, H-hdc 2x] (next raglan corner made – mark this ch-2)**, H-hdc next 20 (20, 22, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34) st, [H-hdc 2x, ch 2, H-hdc 2x] (next raglan corner made – mark this ch-2), repeat from * to **, H-hdc next 10(10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) sts, sl st in first H-hdc (skipping the ch-2) to join, turn work. <66(66, 70, 78, 82, 86, 90, 94)>
Next 0(1, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4, 6) Rnds: Ch 2, H-hdc in first st, *H-hdc in each st until marked ch-2, [H-hdc 2x, ch 2, H-hdc 2x] in marked ch-2, repeat from * to last ch-2, H-hdc in each st to end, sl st in first H-hdc (skipping the ch-2) to join, turn work. <66(82, 102, 110, 13, 150 154, 190)>
Next 18(19, 19, 21, 21 21, 22, 21) Rnds: Ch 2, H-hdc in first st, *H-hdc in each st until marked ch-2, [H-hdc, ch 2, H-hdc] in marked ch-2, repeat from * to last marked ch-2, H-hdc in each st to end, sl st in first H-hdc (skipping the ch-2) to join, turn work. <210(234, 254, 278, 298, 318, 330, 358)>
SEPARATE FOR SLEEVES – change to Color B
Rnd 1: Ch 2, H-hdc in first st, *H-hdc in each st until marked ch-2, FH-hdc in marked ch-2, working off the ch of the previous FH-hdc, FH-hdc 1(1, 3, 3, 3, 5, 7, 7) times, begin an additional FH-hdc as follows; working into the ch of the previous FH-hdc, YO and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), insert hook into the next ch-2 sp (skipping the unworked sts in between), YO and pull through the ch-2 sp (four loops on hook), YO and pull throught he first three loops on hook (two loops remaining), YO and pull through last two loops on hook – these sts will be referred to as the underarm sts; repeat from * one time, H-hdc in each st to end, sl st in first H-hdc (skipping the ch-2) to join, turn work. <126(138, 154, 166, 178, 194, 206, 222)>
The unworked sts will become the sleeves. Mark the center 1(1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 4, 4) FH-hdc of the underarm sts on both the top (sleeve) and bottom (hem). The bottom (hem) stitch marker will be moved down as you complete the bottom portion of this pattern, the top (sleeve) stitch marker will remain in place until you complete the sleeves.
Next 38(38, 37, 37, 38, 37, 38, 37) Rnds: Ch 2, H-hdc in first st, H-hdc in each st around, move the single st marker down with each row, sl st in first H-hdc (skipping the ch-2) to join, turn work.
Fasten off after last repeat. You will now be working in turned rows to complete the front and back slitted sections.
Working along the front of the garment, join yarn by sl st in the st directly in front of either st marker (if you are right handed this will be the st marker along the right, if you are left handed this will be the st marker along the left)
Front Slit Section
Next Row: Ch 2, H-hdc in first st, H-hdc in each st until st directly before next marked st, turn work. <62(68, 76, 82, 88, 96, 102, 110)>
Next 5 Rows: Ch 2, H-hdc in first st, H-hdc in each st to end, turn work.
Fasten off.
Back Slit Section
Join yarn by sl st in either marked st (depending on if you are right- or left-handed)
Next Row: Ch 2, H-hdc in first st, H-hdc in each st to next marked st, turn work. <64(70, 78, 84, 90, 98, 104, 112)>
Next 9 Rows: Ch 2, H-hdc in first st, H-hdc in each st to end, do not turn.
Do NOT fasten off.
You are now going to edge the entire bottom hem including the inside of the slits.
Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire bottom edge, working up into the slits, sl st into the first sc (skipping the ch-1) to join.
SLEEVES – Make 2
With WS(WS, RS, RS, WS, RS, WS, RS) facing out (to ensure you are working into the WS of the stitches/row), join yarn in center/marked st of underarm (this is the top of the st you marked in Rnd 1 of the Separate for Sleeves section.
Rnd 1: Ch 2, H-hdc in joined st (mark this st), H-hdc in next 0(0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 3, 3) st(s), H-hdc2tog, H-hdc in each st until 2 sts remain, H
-hdc2tog, sl st in marked H-hdc (skipping the ch-2) to join, turn work. <46(52, 58, 64, 68, 74, 78, 84)>
Rnd 2: Ch 2, H-hdc in joined st (mark this st), H-hdc2tog, H-hdc in each st until 2 sts remain, H-hdc2tog, sl st in marked H-hdc (skipping the ch-2) to join, turn work.
Repeat previous round 3 times (or until desired sleeve length, do not turn on last repeat. <38(44, 50, 56, 60, 66, 70, 76)>
Next Rnd: Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in each st around, sl st in first sc (skipping the ch-2 to join. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Seam the top of the Fhdc or FH-hdc row closed. *Join Color A by sl st along the back of the neck; ch 1, sc in the joined st, sc in each st around, sl st in first sc (skipping ch-1) to join.
*If the neck is wider than you would prefer you can add decreases along the last sc round, or you can add a round or two of H-hdc with decreases until it is the size you prefer prior to adding a round of sc.
You may also like the Everly Tank or the Golden Poppy Tee.
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Lorene Eppolite is the designer behind Cre8tion Crochet. She has been designing since October 2012. She loves to create fun and easy crochet accessories and garments. Lorene strives to make her designs to be achievable for any skill level. Just because it is easy, doesn’t mean it can’t be beautiful.
