This is a free crochet pattern and video tutorial showing how to crochet the Colin Drew Scarf, an easy corner to corner scarf worked in double crochet boxes. 4 sizes included so you can make one for everybody in the family.
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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.
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I found myself one evening looking for a fun, easy project that I could do while cuddling with my cats and watching TV. I knew I wanted it to be a scarf, so I looked at my yarn stash to see what colorway/s I had that would be enough, and this beautiful gray colorway caught my eye. This colorway does have less yardage than most other skeins of Red Heart Super Saver, 236 compared to 364, but I knew 2 would still be plenty for an adult small size.
Colin Drew is an easy crochet line that features double crochet corner to corner boxes. This is a beginner friendly series, and this scarf is a great project to pair with watching your favorite TV show or movie. You don’t even have to count boxes if you don’t want to! You can use a soft tape measure to measure as you go, and stop at the width and length desired, though I will be providing box counts for each size in the written pattern.
Find more Colin Drew accessory and home decor crochet patterns on EyeLoveKnots, and Colin Drew accessory and wearables crochet patterns here on Cre8tion Crochet.
If you’re new to corner to corner or need a refresher, I have a photo tutorial for C2C in DC. There is also a video tutorial for this project.
Prefer using lightweight #3 yarn? Try the Lightweight Colin Drew Scarf (free crochet pattern). Leaves optional.
Looking for another easy scarf crochet pattern? Try out the Brett Haylee Scarf!
What is the best yarn to use to crochet a scarf?
I’ve used Red Heart Super Saver for my scarf, but you can use any worsted weight yarn from your stash – pick your favorite! If the finished size is essential to you, then check your gauge, but if not, then just start crocheting. With the corner to corner nature, you can easily substitute in any weight yarn and measure.
I picked Red Heart Super Saver because I wanted to use yarn that I had in my stash already, and after the first wash, it gets softer and cozier. Some of my other favorite worsted weight yarns for scarves, especially against the wind, are Lion Brand Wool Ease (wool and acrylic blend) and WeCrochet Swish (100% superwash merino wool). They’re soft, squishy, warm and hold up so well to wear and tear and machine washing and drying.
Do I need to work a border around my scarf?
I did add a border to my scarf for a more finished edging, but you do not need to add one. If you opt not to work a border, you may want to add an extra box to width and height so the scarf will come out to about the same finished size.
If you would like to grab a free copy of the PDF for this pattern, make sure to check out the Pattern Notes section below.
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What Supplies Do I Need to Crochet a C2C Scarf?
- 120 (245, 370, 480) Yards of Worsted Weight #4 Yarn – I used Red Heart Super Saver in the Soapstone colorway
- H8/5mm Crochet Hook – I love my ergonomic hooks from SiennasBowtique on Etsy
- Tapestry Needle
- Optional, Soft Tape Measure – if gauge is essential to you or to measure as you go
Material Notes:
Similar Yarns: Bernat’s Super Value, Premier Yarns Everyday Soft, Lion Brand’s Heartland, WeCrochet Brava
Cozier Yarns (Wool Blends): Lion Brand Wool Ease, Berroco Vintage, Emma’s Washable Worsted, WeCrochet Swish
If you have concerns about using Red Heart Super Saver and similar because of the roughness and stiffness of the fabric, I have a couple tips!
- If the yarn is too rough for your hands to crochet with, remove the skein wrapper, place the skein into a mesh lingerie bag (I bought mine at JoAnn’s), then machine wash it by itself on the gentle cycle in cold water with a mild detergent. Once it’s finished, toss it into the dryer on low heat – you may need to run it through 2 – 3 times to get the center dry.
- To add softness and better drape to the finished piece, crochet in it’s entirety and weave in the ends, then wash and dry in the same manner (with or without the lingerie bag) or simply dry once with a dryer sheet.
How Long Does it Take to Crochet a C2C Scarf?
I was able to work up the adult small in just over 3 hours.
Measurements:
- Toddler: 4 1/8″ by 30″
- Child: 5 1/2″ by 45 1/2″
- Adult Small: 6 1/4″ by 60 1/4″
- Adult Large: 7″ by 70 1/8″
Gauge – Not Essential:
6 Boxes Wide by 6 Boxes Tall = 4 1/4″ by 4″
With the nature of this stitch pattern, the easiest way to measure is to do so in pattern. Measure the width (before the border), and this will be about 1/2″ smaller than finished width. Same goes for the height. You can easily add or take away boxes as you go.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- C2C – Corner to Corner (Photo Tutorial for DC Boxes)
Pattern Notes:
Beginning chain 2 counts as a double crochet. Beginning chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
A box is comprised of four double crochet’s.
Working the final double crochet into the foundation chain from the previous row helps to keep the edge more even. After completing the first box, your edge may look a little wonky. You can use your fingers to manipulate the fabric, but the border will cover it up and it will look nice and straight.
The border adds about 1/2″ to the height and width. You can add more rounds of single crochet to increase the width and height with each round adding about the same 1/2″ (working the second round as a single crochet into each single crochet, 2 single crochets into each chain space, and the same corner increase in each corner chain space).
If you do not want to add a border, you may want to add 1 box to width and height to get closer to the finished measurements.
Through 08/25/23 at 11:59pm EST, you can grab a free copy of the PDF for the Colin Drew Scarf on Ravelry using code FREECROCHET202318. I earn my income from the number of pageviews my blog sees, so please do not share the code, but instead share the link to this post so others can find it. Thank you!
Colin Drew Scarf, Video Tutorial:
Colin Drew Scarf, Written Pattern:
Chain 6. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2. (1 Box)
R2: Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th, 5th and 6th chains. You now have an alligator mouth shape. Flip the bottom fabric so it’s mirrored and slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2, which is the stitch that is the most natural to work into when you lay your 2 boxes together. Chain 2. Looking at the next box, you see the stitches laying horizontally. Work 2 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches. To help keep a straight edge, work the last DC into the foundation chain on the left side. (2 Boxes)
R3: (I) Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2. Flip your fabric and slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2;
(II) Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches of the same box, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;
(III) Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches of the same box, DC into the foundation chain on the left side. (3 Boxes)
R4 – 5 (7, 8, 9): Using Row 3 as a base, you will continue working in the same manner repeating (II) one extra time each row to increase the number of boxes by one each row. At the end of this row, you will have the same number of boxes as rows.
Now the width is as wide as we want it to be, we will no longer be starting with a chain 6 width-wise (though we will continue to start with a chain 6 height-wise). Instead, each time we are starting from this side, we will chain 1 and slip stitch over, then begin with a chain 2 to form a straight edge.
If you want to add width here, you can work an additional row before beginning the decrease on this side.
R6 (8, 9, 10): Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd, 3rd and 4th stitches. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches of the same box, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;
(chain 2, work 3 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches of the same box, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) over to last box;
Chain 2, work 2 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches of the same box, skip the next 3 DC, DC into the foundation chain on the left side. (Same Number of Boxes)
We still want to add height, so when we are starting from this side, we will continue to begin with a chain 6 and work down to form the 1st box. As we work across this row, we will slip stitch to the last box, and not chain 2 to work an additional box on top (because the width is already as wide as we need it).
R7 (9, 10, 11): Chain 6, and turn. DC into the 4th chain, and into each of the next 2. Flip your fabric and slip stitch into the top of the next chain 2;
(chain 2, work 3 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches of the same box, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) over to the last box. (Same Number of Boxes)
Continue alternating these last two rows until you have 42 (64, 85, 99) boxes tall counting vertically (not counting in pattern rows, just counting vertically from the first box). You will maintain the same number of boxes (counting width-wise).
Now the height is as tall as we want it to be, we will no longer be starting with a chain 6 at all. Regardless of the side, we will chain 1 and slip stitch over, then begin with a chain 2. With each row, the number of boxes will decrease by 1.
If you want to add height here, you can work an additional row before beginning the decrease on this side.
Remaining Rows Until You Have 3 Boxes Left: Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd, 3rd and 4th stitches. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches of the same box, slip stitch into the top of the next chain;
(chain 2, work 3 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches of the same box, slip stitch into the top of the next chain) over to last box.
3 Boxes Left: Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd, 3rd and 4th stitches. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches of the same box, slip stitch into the top of the next chain, chain 2, work 3 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches of the same box, slip stitch into the top of the next chain. (2 Boxes)
Last Row: Chain 1, and turn. Slip stitch into the 2nd, 3rd and 4th stitches. Chain 2, work 3 DC into the space in between the top 2 stitches of the same box, slip stitch into the top of the last stitch. (1 Box)
Border – basically it is 1 SC in the space in between each box, a chain 2 in between SCs over each box, and we’ll increase in each corner stitch.
For a more rounded corner, do (SC, chain 1, SC) or 3 SC, and for a more square corner, do (SC, chain 2, SC) or (SC, HDC, SC).
Chain 1, turn. SC into the space between the boxes just under your current place, chain 2, (SC, chain 2, SC) into the corner stitch, chain 2, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, chain 2) across the top, (SC, chain 2, SC) into the corner stitch, chain 2, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, chain 2) down the side, (SC, chain 2, SC) into the corner stitch, chain 2, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, chain 2) across the bottom, (SC, chain 2, SC) into the corner stitch, chain 2, (SC into the space in between the next 2 boxes, chain 2) up the side until you’re back to the beginning then join to the 1st SC.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
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