Welcome to Part One of the Keep Me Warm Cardigan. I’m so happy to have you joining us. Just a reminder; this pattern is available for free, in parts only. A new part of the pattern will be released every Monday for the next three weeks. If you would like to purchase the pattern ahead of time, you can buy it here for 50% off. Just use promo code warmcardi at check out.
This cardigan is made top down, in raglan style. The sleeves and hood are then added, and the entire design is edged in a fun ribbed edging. Buttons complete the design but are optional. This cardigan works up surprisingly fast and is a great first time clothing choice.
You can make your sweater using any color combos that you choose. All one color, one color on the body and one color on the edging, stripes, ombre… whatever your heart desires. See the notes section for the color pattern I used in this sample.
In Part One, we will be creating the top section of the pattern to just right before we will separate the top for our sleeves. Be sure to read the notes AND check your gauge before starting this project. Good luck and feel free to tag me in any posts you make for this CAL.
Please do not share this link, or pattern with anyone outside of the group. If someone you know would like to participate in this CAL, please have them request a join to our Facebook group, here, so that they can get all the details. Thank you.
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate but can also be completed by a skilled beginner
SIZES
S (M, L, XL, XXL)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest 36 (39½, 42, 45¾, 49½)”
Length 26¾ (27¾, 29, 30¼, 32½)”
MATERIALS
Approximately 2000 (2325, 2650, 2975, 3300) yds of worsted weight yarn in colors of your choice
Crochet hook size I-9 (5.5 mm) or size to obtain correct gauge
Removable stitch markers
8 (8, 8, 9, 9) buttons, approx 1¼” in diameter
Darning needle
GAUGE
12 dc and 7 rows = 4″ (10 cm)
SPECIAL STITCHES
CSDC- Chainless Starting Double Crochet
If working in rows, turn work. If working in rounds spin hook completely around, making a twist in the loop. Pull up a loop to the height of a normal dc. YO with the loop so that the hook is behind the loop. Insert the hook into the first st of row. Compete a normal dc (YO and draw through st (3 loops on hook). YO and draw through first two loops on hook. YO and draw through last two loops on hook). Here is a fantastic tutorial by Moogly, the only difference is that I YO and then put the hook into the st, whereas Moogly does not.
Dc2tog (Double crochet 2 together): yarn over (YO), insert hook into first st, YO and draw up a loop, (three loops on hook), YO and pull through first two loops (two loops remaining on hook), YO, insert hook in next st, YO and draw up a loop (four loops on hook), YO, pull through first two loops on hook, YO and pull through remaining three loops.
Fdc (foundation double crochet): Ch 3 (counts as first fdc). Yo and pull up a loop in 3rd ch from hook, yo and pull through 1 loop creating a sl st, (this is an important step but easy to forget), yo and draw though 2 loops (2 loops rem), yo and draw through last 2 loops. This completes the 2nd fdc (the initial 3 ch counted as the first. * Yo and pull up a loop in sl st made with last fdc, yo and pull through 1 loop creating a sl st, yo and draw though 2 loops, yo and draw through last 2 loops; rep from * to desired number of fdc.
ExFpdc (extended fpdc): yo, insert hook from front-to-back-to-front around post of indicated st and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 1 loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops] twice
ExBpdc (extended bpdc): yo, insert hook from back-to-front-to-back around post of indicated st and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 1 loop, [yo and draw through 2 loops] twice
ABBREVIATIONS
beg – begin(ning), ch – chain, dc – double crochet, rep – repeat, rnd – round, RS – right side, sk – skip, sl st – slip stitch, sp – space, st – stitch, WS – wrong side, yo – yarn over
NOTES
- If you are not comfortable doing a FDC row to begin, you can chain the same number required for the FDC row + 3, and then dc into the 3rd hook from the chain, instead. However, you will need to use a larger hook than the one you are using for the pattern (do not forget to change back after you do your chain), and you will have to add one dc row to the top portion to make up for the FDC row that includes that first chain and first row in one.
- The ch 3 at the beg of each row will count as the first dc. This means that the next dc you make should be placed in the 2nd st, EXCEPT in the hood, where an additional dc will be placed in the first dc. This will be specified within the pattern.
- You can replace the ch 3 with a CSDC (in special stitches) if you like. This creates a st that looks more like a dc than a chain. It is not necessary, but will help to prevent any gaps that you sometimes get with a chain at the beginning of a row.
- Pay attention to the stitches called for in the raglan corners, the first one (on smaller sizes) and the second one (on larger sizes) are [2dc, ch 1, 2dc], the rest of the rows go to [1dc, ch 1, 1dc]
- If you do not want buttons, disregard the directions for where to skip stitches in the finishing section of the pattern.
- To get the same color scheme as this sample you will start with Color A (Pewter in sample) and work as follows:
Rows 1-9 Color A (Pewter)
Rows 10-13 Color B (Aqua)
Rows 14-16 Colot A (Pewter)
Rows 17-18 Color B (Aqua)
Row 19 Color A (Pewter)
Rows 20-34 Color B (Aqua)
Row 35 Color A (Pewter)
Rows 36-37 Color B (Aqua)
Row 38 Color A (Pewter)
All ribbing Color A (Pewter)
This row sequence is only for the small size. If you are making a larger size, you will add 0 (2, 4, 8, 10) rows of the main color (aqua) to your pattern. You can either add those rows in the large color section (rows 20-34 on the small size) or you can add them anywhere else on the pattern… this is up to you.
YOKE
Row 1 (RS): Fdc 56 (60, 60, 68, 68), turn.
Place markers at the bases of sts #4 (5, 5, 5, 5), #15 (16, 16, 20, 20), #42 (45, 45, 49, 49) and #53 (56, 56, 64, 64) – 4 markers placed. These markers will be referred to later, when working the Hood. For now, they can be ignored.
Row 2: Ch 3 or CSDC (counts as 1 dc here and throughout), dc in each of next 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of next 10 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of next 24 (26, 26, 28, 28) sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of next 10 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st (raglan corner made), dc in each of last 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts, turn – 68 (72, 72, 80, 80) dc and 4 ch-1 sp.
For 4 largest sizes only:
Row 3: Ch 3 or CSDC, * dc in each st to ch-1 sp, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp; rep from * 3 more times, dc in each st to end, turn – x (88, 88, 96, 96) dc.
Rep the last row x (0, 1, 2, 3) more times – x (88, 104, 128, 144) dc.
For all sizes: raglan st changes from 2dc to 1dc for next 12 rows
Next 12 Rows: Ch 3 or CSDC, * dc in each st to ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp; rep from * 3 more times, dc in each st to end, turn – 164 (184, 200, 224, 240) dc.
END OF PART ONE- Part Two will be released on Monday 10/02/17
