Super Chunky Striped Dylan Claire Beanie - Free Crochet Pattern | Easy Super Chunky Striped Double Crochet Beanie Hat Free Crochet Pattern

This is a free crochet pattern and video tutorial showing how to crochet the Super Chunky Striped Dylan Claire Beanie, which is an easy double crochet beanie worked in fun stripes and super chunky yarn so it works up quickly, and there are 7 sizes included.

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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.

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As I work on updating some older posts, I came across a cozy, striped beanie pattern I made back in March of 2014 on my EyeLoveKnots blog. This beanie was originally worked in Bernat Roving Yarn, which was a great chunky weight #5 roving yarn that made really lovely beanies! Sadly, it’s been discontinued. I have picked up some Lion Brand Hue + Me to update the pattern, but in the meantime, I thought I’d raid my yarn stash for some Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick to make a super chunky version.

One thing I really love about working with super chunky yarns is how quickly projects come together. In a quick comparison to Worsted Weight #4 yarn when working a double crochet beanie, the newborn size requires 4 rounds of increases while the super bulky weight only requires 2! In the same comparison, an adult small size requires 7 rounds of increases while the super bulky weight only requires 3! Are you sold yet?

Easy Double Crochet Patterns:

Dylan Claire is one of my easy, beginner friendly series that features simple double crochet stitches, though I don’t recommend starting with a project that is worked in the round as a beginner – try it after you are comfortable working back and forth in rows using the double crochet stitch pattern.

Striped Dylan Claire Beanie

Dylan Claire Preemie Beanies

Find accessory crochet patterns here at Cre8tion Crochet, with more soon to follow, and home decor and accessory crochet patterns over on my sister blog, EyeLoveKnots.

Behind the Scenes:

One of the days I attempted to get some photos was a really gloomy and windy day – my favorite normally, but not that great for photos.

These ducks came to visit while I was taking photos, and stayed the whole time. They look like they’re having a ball!

3 ducks…

… just playing in the water.

Ducks, squirrels, wild birds – I love it all, and could sit for hours watching them!

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What Supplies Do I Need to Crochet a Super Chunky Beanie?

50 (65, 75, 90, 120, 145, 175) Total Yards of Super Chunky #6 Weight Yarn – I used Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick in Gray Marble (labeled as Color A) and Barley (labeled as Color B) colorways; Respectively that’s about 25 each [35 & 30], 35 each, [45 each], 65 & 55, [75 & 70], 90 & 85.
M13/9mm Crochet Hook
Tapestry Needle
Soft Tape Measure – Gauge is Essential
Optional, Jewelry Pliers

Material Notes:

As a cold weather beanie, animal fibers are better for keeping warm against the wind, and while alpaca works great, my go-to is always a 100% superwash merino wool or a wool and acrylic blend, like Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick. Acrylic yarns, Lion Brand’s Hometown or Mandala Thick & Quick, do also work. Normally, I would stress that they’re good for cool, but not windy, weather as the wind tends to go right through, but a Super Bulky weight yarn does provide better coverage, even in a 100% acrylic. If you don’t have a Super Bulky weight yarn, or are having trouble finding one you like, you can also hold 2-3 Strands of a Worsted Weight #4 Yarn, like Red Heart Super Saver, Berroco Vintage or Lion Brand Wool Ease and Berroco Vintage.

I love my ergonomic clay hooks from SiennasBowtique and BronzeShepherdStudio! They both have so many fun designs – I have several from each shop because they’re so darn cute and nice to hold onto! We also have lots of beautiful, handcrafted crochet hooks in our Yarn Crafts and Coffee Yarn Shop as well!

Jewelry Pliers are an excellent tool to use to help weave in the ends of tough yarns, like cotton yarn or bulkier yarns, as it can be quite tough on the fingers when weaving in with just fingers and a tapestry needle.

Another great tool, especially when working with tough and/or chunky yarns is a bent tip tapestry needle. Amazon has a lot of cute, colorful options.

Measurements:

The Newborn Size has a crown of 4″ in diameter, a circumference of just 12 1/2″ to fit a head size of 13″-14″, and is 5″ in length.

The 3-6 Month Size has a crown of 4 1/2″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 14 1/8″ to fit a head size of 14″-16″, and is 5 1/4″ in length.

The 6-12 Month Size has a crown of 5 1/8″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 16 1/8″ to fit a head size of 17″-19″, and is 5 3/4″ in length.

The Toddler Size has a crown of 5 5/8″ in diameter, a circumference of 17 5/8″ to fit a head size of 18″ – 20″, and is 6 1/2″ in length.

The Child Size Size has a crown of 6 3/8″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 20″ to fit a head size of 20″ – 22″, and is 7″ in length.

The Teen/Adult Small Size has a crown of 6 3/8″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 20″ to fit a head size of 20″ – 22″, and is 8 1/2″ in length.

The Adult Large Size has a crown of 6 1/2″ in diameter, a circumference of nearly 20 3/8″ to fit a head size of 22″ – 23″, and is about 8 1/2″ – 9 1/2″ in length.

If you are concerned with the size (or want to make a different size), take your tape measure out and measure around your head just above your eyebrows. The distance around is the circumference. You will need to use this equation to figure out what size diameter you will need: Your Circumference – 2” / 3.14 (pi) = crown diameter. 2” is the amount of stretch for acrylic, wool, and similar. If you are a tight crocheter, go down to 1 1/2″ smaller than your head circumference.

Gauge – Measured in Pattern at the end of Round 2:

16 DC = 3 5/8″
18 DC = 4″
20 DC = 4 3/8″
22 DC = 4 1/2″
24 DC = 4 3/4″

Gauge it very important for beanies. If you do not meet gauge, and continue making your beanie, the finished size will either be too small or too big so make sure to check it at the end of Round 2.

If you’re measuring smaller than the given measurements, go up a crochet hook size and rework the sample. If you’re measuring larger than the given measurements, go down a crochet hook size and rework the sample. Take gauge again, and see where you are.

Abbreviations (US Terms):

DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)

Pattern Notes:

I work my crown and body differently than most to help keep my seam straight, and that is that the first stitch from the first set of increases is done in the first stitch of the round, which will appear just to left of the beginning chain, then the round will be worked as normal, and the final stitch of the round will be the second stitch of the first set of increases, and it will be worked into the same stitch as the first, and appear just to the right of the beginning chain. The photo above shows where the first and last stitch are worked, and I have a photo tutorial of this technique in my How to Keep a Straight Seam post. You can work in your preferred increase method as long as we end up with the same stitches at the end of the round.

In the crown, the beginning chain 2 does not count as a stitch, but in the body, the chain 2 does count.

Join to the first stitch, not the beginning chain 2 in every round except for the very last round of double crochet IF you are adding a round of single crochet after – then join to the top chain of the beginning chain 2.

For the most seamless color change, after working the last stitch of the round, yarn over with the color you are switching to just to have it over your hook and complete the slip stitch of the round in the current color, then pull the new color through the loop on my hook, and pull that initial loop tail end to tighten down. The previous color will disappear, and it becomes a clean, seamless color change.

For Stripes, start with your first color labeled as Color A (in my case, it was gray), and alternate with a second color labeled Color B (in my case, it was brown). I worked my final single crochet round in the same color as my first double crochet round.

For my beanie, I carried the yarn up the inside of the beanie, so there are floats (the height of the row) along the inside of the seam, which is only visible from the inside of the beanie.

If you do not want to have smaller floats, for the last double crochet: yarn over, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull through (3 loops on your hook), yarn over with the color you are switching to just so it’s over your hook and then complete the first half of the double crochet by yarning over and pulling through 2 loops. Yarn over, and pull through the remaining 2 loops, and you will find the color you’re switching to in the perfect place to grab it when you’re ready. This will cut the float in half heightwise.
If you do not want to have visible floats, you can finish each row off with an invisible join, and reattach the new color for each row.

I did use a tapestry needle to weave in my ends, but you can also weave in your ends using a small crochet hook, like a G6/4.25mm – I have a video tutorial showing how. Another way you can join yarn and weave in ends when working with wool yarns is felting, and All About Ami has a great video showing how to do it and photo tutorial.

I have made myself and gifted several of these beanies following 2″ smaller than the head circumference and had them fit perfect, but if you are a tight crocheter, you may want to go down to a crown diameter that is 1 1/2″ smaller than your head circumference, instead of the given 2″ – this may mean adding an extra stitch in the beginning or going up a crochet hook size and following exactly in pattern. Just remember to check your gauge before moving on from the increasing rounds.

Super Chunky Striped Dylan Claire Beanie Hat Video Tutorial:

Super Chunky Striped Dylan Claire Beanie Hat Written Pattern:

Newborn:

Leave a slightly longer tail than usual when making the slip knot to accommodate the stitches being worked into the first chain.

In Color A, chain 3. Work 9 DC into the first chain. Join with Color B. (9 DC)

R2: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 8 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join with Color A. (18 DC)

Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4″.

R3: In Color A, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join with Color B (18 DC)

R4: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join with Color A. (18 DC)

R5: In Color A, chain 1. Work 1 SC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join with Color B (18 SC)

R6: In Color B, chain 1. Work 1 SC into the first SC, and each SC around. Join with Color A. (18 SC)

R7: In Color A, chain 1. Work 1 SC into the first SC, and each SC around. Join. (18 SC)

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

3 – 6 Months:

In Color A, chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 11 DC into the ring. Join with Color B. (11 DC)

R2: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 10 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join with Color A. (22 DC)

Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 4 1/2″.

R3: In Color A, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join with Color B. (22 DC)

R4: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join with Color A. (22 DC)

R5: In Color A, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join with Color B. (22 DC)

R6: In Color B, chain 1. Work 1 SC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join with Color A. (22 SC)

R7: In Color A, chain 1. Work 1 SC into the first SC, and each SC around. Join. (22 SC)

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

6 – 12 Months:

Leave a slightly longer tail than usual when making the slip knot to accommodate the stitches being worked into the first chain.

In Color A, chain 3. Work 8 DC into the first chain. Join with Color B. (8 DC)

R2: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 7 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join with Color A. (16 DC)

R3: In Color A, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 7x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join with Color B. (24 DC)

Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 5 1/8″.

R4: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join with Color A. (24 DC)

R5: In Color A, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join with Color B. (24 DC)

R6: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join with Color A. (24 DC)

R7: In Color A, chain 1. Work 1 SC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join. (24 SC)

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Toddler:

Leave a slightly longer tail than usual when making the slip knot to accommodate the stitches being worked into the first chain.

In Color A, chain 3. Work 9 DC into the first chain. Join with Color B. (9 DC)

R2: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 8 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join with Color A. (18 DC)

R3: In Color A, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 8x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join with Color B. (27 DC)

Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 5 5/8″.

R4: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join with Color A. (27 DC)

R5: In Color A, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join with Color B. (27 DC)

R6: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join with Color A. (27 DC)

R7: In Color A, chain 1. Work 1 SC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join with Color B. (27 SC)

R8: In Color B, chain 1. Work 1 SC into the first SC, and each SCaround. Join with Color A. (27 SC)

R9: In Color A, chain 1. Work 1 SC into the first SC, and each SC around. Join. (27 SC)

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Child:

In Color A, chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 11 DC into the ring. Join with Color B. (11 DC)

R2: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first stitch, 2 DC in each of the next 10 DCs, and 1 DC into the last stitch. Join with Color A. (22 DC)

R3: In Color A, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first two stitches, (2 DC into the next stitch, 1 DC into the next stitch) 10x, 1 DC into the last stitch. Join with Color B. (33 DC)

Checkpoint: Stop here, and measure the diameter to ensure the finished beanie will fit correctly. You’ll want your diameter to measure 6 3/8″.

R4: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join with Color A. (33 DC)

R5: In Color A, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join with Color B. (33 DC)

R6: In Color B, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the second DC, and each DC around. Join with Color A. (33 DC)

R7: In Color A, chain 2. Work 1 DC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join with Color B. (33 DC)

R8: In Color B, chain 1. Work 1 SC into the first DC, and each DC around. Join with Color A. (33 SC)

R9: In Color A, chain 1. Work 1 SC into the first SC, and each SC around. Join. (33 SC)

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Adult Small: