Learn how to crochet a cute granny square slouchy hat that combines traditional granny squares with the classic granny stitch using your favorite worsted weight yarn and this free crochet pattern.
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I’m honored to be participating in Granny Fest 2025, hosted by Banana Moon Studio!

From January 15th through February 15th, you’ll find beautiful crochet projects that feature the traditional granny square and classic granny stitch.

You can visit with Banana Moon Studio to see all of the free projects to choose from, and please join the Facebook group to join in the discussion and share about your project.

Inspired by my Iced Edge Granny Square Slouch Hat, which features a solid granny square band paired with the classic granny stitch for the body, I decided to go back to this design, and change out the solid granny square band for traditional granny squares.
Instead of the more common join-as-you-go technique with the band, I decided to pair this with another favorite, the Pull Loop Through Join, which gives a lovely twisted look around the squares and a more solid join for the band as well.
Genesis {Granny Square & Granny Stitch} Free Crochet Patterns:
Genesis is one of my series that feature the traditional granny square paired with the beautiful, classic granny stitch pattern. I always find these two to be so therapeutic to work up and pairs well with your favorite TV show or movie.
Find accessories and home decor projects on EyeLoveKnots, and wearables and accessories here on Cre8tion Crochet.

If you love working in granny stitch, you’ll love my Grace Tinley series, featuring designs such as this Grace Tinley Rectangle Shawl.
How do you crochet a granny stitch slouchy hat with a granny square band for an adult?
This granny stitch slouchy hat begins with a two round granny square. I chose to start with brown for the first round, and then switch to gray for the second round.
After completing the first granny square, you’ll proceed to work 7 more partial two round granny squares in which you’ll join-as-you-go to the previous granny square to complete each one and grow the width of the band until it’s approximately 2″ smaller than your head circumference.
The first granny square should equal about 2 5/8″ wide, and once you add the second granny square, it becomes about 5″ wide. If you’re currently measuring smaller or larger, then the finished band is also going to be smaller or larger. To fit properly, gauge is essential so I recommend going up or down a crochet hook size, reworking and then measure again to see where you are.
On the 8th square, you will join-as-you-go on both the left and right side to connect the granny squares together to create a band, or a tube. This band will be about 2″ smaller than your head circumference.
Next, we’ll chain 1, and single crochet into each stitch around to give the edging a nice finish. Join and fasten off at the end of the round, and this edge will be the finished bottom edge of the slouchy hat.
On the other end of the band, attach your yarn into the center join between two squares. Begin with a chain 2, which counts as the first double crochet of a granny stitch cluster, then double crochet into the next chain space. Chain 2, skip the next 3 double crochets of the granny square
Continue repeating this last row until you have reached a length that is equal to 1 1/2″ – 2″ longer than your typical beanie height.
I’ve added a couple rounds of decreasing in the written pattern to take away some of the bulkiness at the top, but you don’t have to. You can fasten off with a long tail. Pull up on the final loop, turn the hat inside out so wrong side is facing. Thread the tapestry needle and weave in and out of every other stitch to close up the top. Once back to the beginning, pull tight to close and sew to secure.
Weave in remaining ends. If desired, add a cute pom pom – I think I’m going to go back and add one for mine.
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Materials:
- 210 Yards of Worsted Weight Yarn – I used Lion Brand Wool Ease in the Umber [Brown] (35 Yards), Grey Heather (55 Yards) and Linen [Cream] (120 Yards) colorways
- H8/5mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle
- Soft Tape Measure – Gauge is Essential
Material Notes:
There are many yarns that would be perfect for slouchy hats! The first question I would start with is will it be for warm weather or cold weather? A cotton blend yarn like Berroco Modern Cotton would be perfect for warmer weather, and a wool blend yarn like my chosen Lion Brand Wool Ease would be better for cooler weather.
With the holes in the fabric, especially in the band, I would not use this slouchy hat in cold, windy weather, unless a second, solid layer was attached to the bottom of the band, which would cover your ears and provide warmth, but great for cooler Spring and Fall days.
Yarn Alternatives:
- Cotton Blend for Warm Weather: Berroco Modern Cotton
- Cozy Wool Blends: WeCrochet Swish
- Cozy Non-Wool Alpaca Blends: Mirasol Misma, Ella Rae Cozy Alpaca
- Acrylic Yarns: Lion Brand Jeans, Lion Brand Heartland, WeCrochet Brava
Feel free to use your favorite worsted weight yarn out of your stash!
I love my ergonomic clay hooks from SiennasBowtique and BronzeShepherdStudio! They both have so many fun designs – I have several from each shop because they’re so darn cute and nice to hold onto! We also have lots of beautiful, handcrafted crochet hooks in our Yarn Crafts and Coffee Yarn Shop as well!
How Long Does it Take to Crochet a Slouchy Hat?
Just under 2 hours
Measurements:
- 1st Granny Square: 2 5/8″ tall
- Seamed Band: 9 5/8″ wide
- Entire Hat: 10″ Tall
- Fits the average Teen/Adult of about head circumference 21″ – 22″
When seamed, the band measures 9 5/8″ wide, which is equal to a circumference of about 19 1/4″. When you add in 2″ worth of stretch, this becomes about 21 1/4″. With the band worked this way, it will stretch about 1/2″ more or so, and this will fit the average teen/adult head of 21 1/2″ – 22″ (and child as well).
Note: If you would like something to fit a toddler of about 19″, you may want to go down a hook size for the entire project aiming for a band that is about 8 1/2″ wide when seamed, and for an adult large of about 23″, you may want to go up a hook size for the entire project aiming for a band that is about 10 1/2″ wide when seamed.
For the teen/adult size, the slouchy hat will equal 10 1/2″ at the end of Round 13. For a toddler size, you would want to stop working repeats when the body is measuring approximately 7 1/2″ tall, and for an adult large size, you will want to stop working repeats when the body is measuring approximately 10 1/2″ tall. Proceed with the two rounds of decreasing and then seam closed.

Gauge:
The first granny square should equal about 2 5/8″ wide, and once you add the second granny square, it becomes about 5″ wide. If you’re currently measuring smaller or larger, then the finished band is also going to be smaller or larger. To fit properly, gauge is essential so I recommend going up or down a crochet hook size, reworking and then measure again to see where you are.
Abbreviations – US Terms:
- DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- PLT – Pull Loop Through (a join-as-you-go method)
- How to PLT: After DC in current piece, pull up a loop and pull out crochet hook, re-insert hook from the front through the corresponding stitch on Motif B [your corresponding piece] and pull loop through
Pattern Notes:
Beginning chain 2 counts as a stitch. Beginning chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
You may want to weave in the ends as you go so you don’t end up with too many at the end of the project as the granny squares leave quite a few, especially if you change colors after Round 1.
For the most seamless color change, slip stitch over into the chain space with the original color, then after working the last slip stitch, grab the new color on your hook and pull through, then pull the tail end of the original color and it will practically disappear. Tighten the new color down to normal tension. From working with this new color, the original loop may pop back up because it’s not secured until woven in, but you can tug on the tail end to tighten it back down. If desired, view my photo tutorial.
I love to use the Pull Loop Through join and I use it whenever possible, but feel free to replace this with the more common join-as-you-go technique for granny squares. If you choose to work up 8 granny squares and seam together, just make sure to check the measurement as I think this may produce a slightly smaller width.

1st Granny Square Pattern:
Chain 5. Slip stitch join to form a ring. Chain 2 (counts as a DC), 2 DC into the ring, (chain 3, 3 DC into the ring) 3x, chain 2. Join to the 1st DC.
R2: Slip Stitch over to the next chain space. Chain 2 (counts as a DC), 2 DC into the same space, chain 3, 3 DC into the same space, chain 1, [(3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC) into the next chain space, chain 1] 3x. Join to the top of the beginning chain 2.
The first granny square should equal about 2 5/8″ wide. Measure before fastening off. If you’re currently measuring smaller or larger, then the finished band is also going to be smaller or larger. To fit properly, gauge is essential so I recommend going up or down a crochet hook size, reworking and then measure again to see where you are.
Fasten off.
Take note of where the join is. When you are ready to start joining the remaining squares, you’ll want to make sure all of the squares have the join positioned at the top center.
2nd – 7th Granny Squares:
Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC in the ring, chain 3, (3 DC into the ring, chain 3) 2x, 3 DC into the ring, chain 2. Join to the 1st DC. (12 DC)
R2: Slip stitch over to the chain space. Chain 2. DC into the chain space, chain 1, working from behind SC into the chain 3 of the previous square, chain 1. (DC into the chain space of the current square, PLT) 3x, chain 1, PLT through the chain space, (DC into the chain space of the current square, PLT) 3x, chain 1, working from behind SC into the chain 3 of the previous square, chain 1; Remaining into the current square: 3 DC into the same corner chain space, chain 1, [(3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC) into the next chain space, chain 1] 2x. Join to the top of the beginning chain 2.
Once you add the second granny square, it becomes about 5″ wide. Measure before fastening off. If you’re currently measuring smaller or larger, then the finished band is also going to be smaller or larger. To fit properly, gauge is essential so I recommend going up or down a crochet hook size, reworking and then measure again to see where you are.
Fasten off.
8th Granny Square – Joins the Band:
Chain 5. Join to form a ring. Chain 2. 2 DC in the ring, chain 3, (3 DC into the ring, chain 3) 2x, 3 DC into the ring, chain 2. Join to the 1st DC. (12 DC)
R2: Slip stitch over to the chain space. Chain 2. DC into the chain space, chain 1, working from behind SC into the chain 3 of the previous square, chain 1. (DC into the chain space of the current square, PLT) 3x, chain 1, PLT through the chain space, (DC into the chain space of the current square, PLT) 3x, chain 1, working from behind SC into the chain 3 of the previous square, chain 1; Into the current square: 3 DC into the same corner chain space, chain 1, 3 DC into the next corner chain space; Bring the end of the 1st square to your current position to create a tube and put you in the correct position to join the current square to the 1st one: working from behind SC into the chain 3 of the 1st square, chain 1. (DC into the chain space of the current square, PLT) 3x, chain 1, PLT through the chain space, (DC into the chain space of the current square, PLT) 3x, chain 1, working from behind SC into the chain 3 of the 1st square, chain 1; Remaining in the current square: 3 DC into the same chain space, chain 1. Join to the top chain of the beginning chain 2. Don’t fasten off.
Bottom Edging:
Chain 1. SC into the 1st stitch (which is the same stitch you joined to), SC into each of the next 2 DC, SC into the chain space, SC into the center of the join between two squares, (SC into the next chain space, SC into each of the next 3 DC, SC into the center chain space, SC into each of the next 3 DC, SC into the next chain space, SC into the center of the join between two squares) 7x, SC into the next chain space, SC into each of the next 3 DC, SC into the center chain space. Join to the 1st SC. Fasten off.

Hat Body:
R1: Attach yarn into any center join between two squares. Chain 2. DC into the next chain space, chain 2, 3 DC into the center chain space, chain 2, DC into the next corner chain space, (DC into the center join between two squares, DC into the next chain space, chain 2, 3 DC into the center chain space, chain 2, DC into the next corner chain space) 6x. Join to the top chain of the beginning chain 2.
R2 – 11: Slip stitch into the next DC and then into the next chain space. Chain 2. 2 DC into the same space, chain 2, skip the next 3 DC, (3 DC into the next chain space, chain 2, skip the next 3 DC) around. Join to the top chain of the beginning chain 2.
Note: The slouchy hat should be measuring approximately 9 3/8″ tall. Now we’ll proceed to close in the top a little bit with a couple decrease rounds, and then sew the rest closed.
R12, Decrease: Slip stitch into the next DC and then into the next chain space. Chain 2. 2 DC into the same space, chain 1, skip the next 3 DC, (3 DC into the next chain space, chain 1, skip the next 3 DC) around. Join to the top chain of the beginning chain 2.
R13, Decrease: Slip stitch into the next DC and then into the next chain space. Chain 2. 2 DC into the same space, skip the next 3 DC, (3 DC into the next chain space, skip the next 3 DC) around. Join to the top chain of the beginning chain 2.
Fasten off with a long tail. Pull up on the final loop, turn the hat inside out so wrong side is facing. Thread the tapestry needle and weave in and out of every other stitch to close up the top. Once back to the beginning, pull tight to close and sew to secure.
Weave in remaining ends. If desired, add a cute pom pom – I think I’m going to go back and add one for mine.

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