This is a free crochet pattern showing how to crochet the Through the Window Tote Bag – a fun crochet tote bag pattern that uses the mosaic crochet technique. Don’t let it scare you! It’s comprised of simple single crochet stitches, chains and easy double crochets.
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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.
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When I originally planned the 2025 Spooktacular Halloween Crafting Event, I knew I wanted to share a trick or treat bag, and while I imagined it being used to collect candy while trick or treating, but it is also a great sized tote bag for everyday errands and carrying WIPs in.
This bag also coordinates perfectly with the Through the Window Crossbody Bag!
Mosaic Crochet Patterns:
Through the Window is a fun crochet line that features inset mosaic crochet, a technique combining chains and single crochets with double crochets worked over the chains. With the main color worked on top of the fun, colored background boxes, it reminds me a window pane – the inspiration behind the name.
My favorite way to work this mosaic stitch pattern is by using a variegated yarn as the background color and a coordinating color over top of it as the main color, but over the years, I’ve enjoyed working many samples in a single solid color as the background color, or two solid colors to resemble stripes. The possibilities are endless!
You’ll Love These Matching Pieces:
Through the Window Cosmetic Bag or Hook Pouch
Find more Through the Window accessory and home decor crochet patterns on EyeLoveKnots, and Through the Window accessory and wearables crochet patterns here on Cre8tion Crochet.
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What Do I Need to Crochet a Tote Bag?
- 580 Yards (469 Grams) of Worsted Weight Yarn – I used Circulo Natural Cotton Maxcolor 4/6 – 419 Yards (339 Grams) of Black and 161 Yards (130 Grams) of Pumpkin
- H8/5mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle for Weaving in Ends
- Optional, Jewelry Pliers
- Optional, Stitch Markers to help with strap assembly
- Optional, Blank Canvas Tote Bag – Laid flat, the bag measures 13 1/2″ wide by 13 1/2″ tall by 3″ deep with a 9 3/8″ tall strap.
- Optional, Glue – I used Titebond Quick & Thick for Multi-Surface or Sewing Needle & Thread
Material Notes:
The Circulo Natural Cotton Maxcolor 4/6 I used is a heavy worsted weight cotton yarn. Alternatively, I like WeCrochet Dishie and Queensland Coastal Cotton for my bags, though these are a lighter worsted weight cotton yarn, and I believe you may need to go up to an I9/5.5mm crochet hook if using a lighter worsted weight cotton yarn. My number one thing for picking a great 100% cotton yarn to work with is making sure it’s colorfast, which means the color is set so you don’t have to worry about the colors fading and bleeding, and I like to be able to wash my bags so colorfast is a must. All 3 of my recommendations here are colorfast.
Now, do you need to use a cotton yarn? Not at all! I love the durability and versatility of cotton yarn, but you can use your favorite worsted weight yarn from your stash. Keep in mind, cotton creates a more relaxed fabric, so if you opt for something like acrylic or wool, you’ll want to size up on your crochet hook.
I love my ergonomic clay hooks from SiennasBowtique and BronzeShepherdStudio! They both have so many fun designs – I have several from each shop because they’re so darn cute and nice to hold onto! We also have lots of beautiful, handcrafted crochet hooks in our Yarn Crafts and Coffee Yarn Shop as well!
Jewelry Pliers are an excellent tool to use to help weave in the ends of tough yarns, like cotton yarn or bulkier yarns, as it can be quite tough on the fingers when weaving in with just fingers and a tapestry needle.
Stitch Markers are really helpful to use when planning out and seaming the strap. I like to use Lever Back Stitch Markers, but plastic Locking Stitch Markers, scrap yarn, paper clips and safety pins work too!
You can find a cream and black Tote Bag option in my Yarn Crafts & Coffee shop, but you can also source bags like these on Amazon and your local craft store in the aisle where Cricut or sublimation supplies can be found. Alternatively, you can sew your own lining.
Titebond Quick & Thick for Multi-Surface Glue is absolutely perfect for projects where you work with natural fibers. It does work with acrylic yarns as well, but it takes longer to hold. With cotton yarns, the glue adheres right away. This glue has no odor and is non-toxic. I used to sew in my linings, but now, I just use this glue and I haven’t had any issues with anything coming apart.
How Long Does it Take to Crochet a Tote Bag?
8 hours
Crocheted Bag Measurements:
Base of Bag (Rows 1 – 12): 9 1/4″ Wide by 3 1/4″ Tall
Finished Bag Body: 12 1/2″ Wide by 15 1/4″ Tall
Unsewn Straps: 2 5/8″ Wide by 20 5/8″ Tall
If you’re using the Blank Canvas Bag, it measures 13 1/2″ wide by 15 1/2″ tall (laying flat). With the stretch of the yarn, I always make my crocheted bag a little smaller as it will stretch nicely to fit. If your fabric is measuring a little wider than the canvas bag, it is okay too as long as it’s not excessive as you don’t want it to be very baggy around the canvas bag or bunch up when you go to attach the lining, but you don’t want it to be longer than the canvas bag.
Gauge:
In Pattern, Round 1:
- Back Bottom (30 SC by 12 Rows): 9 1/4″ Wide by 3 1/4″ Tall
- Strap (8 SC by 79 Rows): 2 5/8″ Wide by 20 5/8″ Tall
Measured Flat Across a Row 19 Repeat, starting from the 1st SC/Left SC across to the 2nd DC/Right DC in Pattern: 16 stitches by 18 Rows = 4 3/4” Wide by 4 1/8” Tall
Gauge is essential if you’ll be using a Blank Canvas Bag, like I did, to line your bag. If you don’t line your bag, or if you make your own, gauge is not essential.
Abbreviations (US Terms):
- HDC – Half Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial | Video Tutorial)
- DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- FSC – Foundation Single Crochet
- How to FSC: Chain 2. Insert hook into the first chain, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through first loop (to create foundation chain), yarn over, pull through two loops on hook. First chain and SC created. Looking at the stitch in your hand, you should see the top of the SC to the right, and parallel on the left side, it should look like the opposite side of the beginning foundation chain. You will be working in these stitches on the left. To create the next stitch and each stitch after, insert hook under both loops of the foundation chain (left side) yarn over, and pull through, yarn over, pull through first loop, yarn over, pull through 2 remaining loops.
How to Customize the Base to Fit Your Bag:
If you are using a different bag than I am, or want to use a thinner or thicker yarn and the gauge doesn’t match mine, this is how you can customize the fit:
Step 1: Work a swatch of about 20 stitches by 15 rows. Measure and write down the following:
- The complete width – I did 21 SC, and it equaled 6 5/8″
- The complete height – I did 11 rows, and it equaled 3 1/4″
- A complete width gauge within the pattern (it does not have to be 4″ exactly, but a see how many full stitches it takes to equal a solid number like 4″ or 4 1/4″ – don’t use half of a stitch) – I measured 13 SC at 4″
- With respective to how you measured the width gauge within the pattern, measure to see how much the first and last stitches are – mine equaled 3/4″
- The height of the foundation chain (should be about 1/8″ of an inch) – mine equaled 1/8″
Step 2: Add a single crochet border all the way around the swatch, then measure and note the width and height again. Mine equaled 7 1/8″ wide by 3 5/8″ tall
Step 3: Take the new height measurement after working the border, and subtract the original complete height measurement to see how much the border adds to the height. Write this down. Mine: 3 5/8″ tall – 3 1/4″ = 3/8″
Step 4: Take the new width measurement after working the border, and subtract the original complete width measurement to see how much the border adds to the width. Write this down. Mine: 7 1/8″ tall – 6 5/8″ = 1/2″
Step 5: Take the complete gauge from within the pattern, and divide it by the number of stitches you measured across. Mine: 13 SC = 4″ so 4 divide by 13 = 0.3077″
Step 6: Take the original height, subtract the foundation chain and then divide it by the number of rows you measured. Mine: 11 Rows = 3 1/4″ tall so 3.25 divided by 11 = 0.2736″
Step 7: Measure the bottom of your bag. Mine: 9 3/4″ wide by 3 5/8″ tall
Step 8: Take the height and width of your bag bottom and subtract what the border will add (Steps 3 and 4). Mine: 9.25″ wide by 3.25″ tall
Step 9: Divide the width by 1 stitch (Step 5) to determine how many stitches total you’ll need. Mine: 9.25 divided by 0.3077 = 30 SC
Step 10: Take the height, subtract the foundation chain and then divide it by 1 row (Step 6) to determine how many rows total you’ll need. Mine: 3.25 divided by 0.2736 = 11.4 rows rounded up to 12 Rows
Now you know how many stitches across by how many rows that you need to work, then add a single crochet border to the base, and you’ll have a base that will cover the bottom of your bag.
Count the total stitches you have around after working the border. The stitch multiple for the mosaic stitch pattern is 4 so if your number is not divisible by 4, increase evenly in the next round of single crochet to get there. If your number is divisible by 4, just work another round of single crochet evenly.
Pattern Notes:
In the pattern, I will instruct to example, in Round 21 “DC into each of the 2 open stitches from two rows below”. In the photo above, you can see how there is a skipped stitch in white, and two rows of chains above it. You will push those chains to the back, and work the double crochet just into that skipped stitch in white.
The Mosaic Stitch multiple is 4. If you adjust the stitch count in the base of your bag, count the total stitches you have around after working the border of the base. If your number is not divisible by 4, increase evenly in the next round of single crochet to get there. If your number is divisible by 4, just work another round of single crochet evenly.
Join to the first stitch of the round, making sure to move the previous color/s to the inside of the bag first so it won’t be visible from the right side (or front side) of the bag). When joining from the right side of the bag, pull the other color/s up along the inside of the bag to carry it/them and place over your crochet hook before joining. The chain 1 from the next round will secure it in place.
For the most seamless color change, after joining with the current color, turn to the new working side. Pull the new color through the loop on your hook, then pull the tail end of the original color tight – it will disappear. Continue working with the new color. If the original loop pops up at any time while you’re working, simply hold onto the fabric and give the tail end a tug, and it will disappear again. If you prefer the more common way of changing colors in the last yarn over of the previous stitch, feel free to substitute this method.
If you are adding the Blank Canvas Bag, and you do not want to add crocheted straps on top of the existing canvas ones, you can simply omit the strap instructions and finish after Round 73.
In Row 1 of the Strap, we use the Foundation Single Crochet to easily add stitches before and after the 4 stitches that are worked directly into the fabric.
Through the Window Tote Bag Video Tutorial:
Filming for the video is in progress, but in the meantime, you can reference the video tutorial for the Through the Window Cosmetic Bag or Hook Pouch to review the 4 rounds of the mosaic stitch pattern.
Through the Window Tote Bag Written Pattern:
In Black, chain 31. SC into the 2nd chain from the hook, and each chain across. (30 SC)
R2 – 12: Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st SC, and into each SC across the row. (30 SC)
At this point, the base of the bag measures 3 1/4″ tall by 9 1/4″ wide.
I recommend weaving in the initial tail end now, as it’s easy to get to.
R13: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st SC, and each SC across the row. Rotate the fabric to work down the side, working 1 SC into the side edge of the next 11 rows, SC into the next stitch which is the corner. Rotate the fabric to work along the opposite side of the foundation chain, working all the way across (30 sts). Rotate the fabric to work up the side edge of the next 11 rows. Slip stitch join to the 1st SC of the round. (82 SC)
Note: When working the first stitch going into the side edge, work the first stitch tighter to avoid a gap in the fabric at the corner. Work the slip stitch in a similar manner.
R14: Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st 5 SC, 2 SC into the next SC, SC into the next 41 SC, 2 SC into the next SC, SC into the last 34 SC. Join. (84 SC)
R15 – 18: Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st SC and into each SC around. Join – with Pumpkin at the end. (84 SC)
R19: In Pumpkin, chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st stitch, chain 3, skip 2 stitches, (SC into each of the next 2 stitches, chain 3, skip 2 stitches) around to the end, SC into the last stitch. Join. (42 SC, 42 chain spaces)
R20: Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st stitch, chain 3, skip chain space, (SC into each of the next 2 stitches, chain 3, skip the chain space) around to the end. SC into the last stitch. Join with Black.
I recommend weaving in the initial tail end of the Pumpkin colorway now, as it’s easy to get to.
R21: In Black, chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st SC, DC into each of the 2 open stitches from two rows below, (SC into each of the next 2 SC, DC into each of the next 2 open stitches from two rows below) around to the end, SC into the last SC. Join.
R22: Chain 1, turn. SC into the 1st SC, and each stitch around. Join – with Pumpkin at the end.
R23 – 70: Repeat Rounds 19 – 22.
R71 – 73: Repeat Rounds 19 – 21; Fasten off Pumpkin at the end.
Place a stitch marker on the 6th, 27th, 50th and 67th stitches. This is easiest to reference here as you finish the body of the bag, but before weaving in ends.
Weave in the ends of the body and any remaining ends.
Place in the Blank Canvas Bag – I turned my canvas bag inside out first so there are no visible seams. Center the two ends of the bag body with the center side seams of the canvas bag – this should be right in between stitches as there will be 22 stitches on both the front and back sides – and then glue or sew it in place.
Reference the stitches where you have placed the stitch marker, and make sure these line up with the straps of the tote bag. You may need to slightly stretch the fabric to see clearly – to do so, place your hands inside the bag at the side seams, and stretch so the lining is even with the crocheted fabric. Adjust the stitch markers if necessary.
2 Handles Tote Bag Strap Pattern, Side 1 – in Black:
R1: FSC 2. SC into the 6th stitch of the bag body, and into each of the next 3 stitches of the of the bag body. FSC 2. (8 SC)
R2 – 79: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st SC, and each SC across.
The strap should be measuring 2 5/8″ wide by 20 5/8″ tall. Test the strap placement. Add rows if needed to make the strap longer.
Fasten off. Leaving the last 2 and 1st 2 single crochets unworked (so they are free to fold around the back of the strap), whipstitch the center 4 single crochets to the bag body, lining the right stitch up with the stitch marker located in the 27th stitch.
Weave in initial tail end.
Fold the left and right sides of the strap that were left unworked around the bag strap so they meet in the center of the back of the strap. Whipstitch closed – you may want to evenly place stitch markers to help you line up the stitches. Weave in final end.
2 Handles Tote Bag Strap Pattern, Side 2 – in Black:
R1: FSC 2. SC into the 50th stitch of the bag body, and into each of the next 3 stitches of the of the bag body. FSC 2. (8 SC)
R2 – 79: Chain 1, and turn. SC into the 1st SC, and each SC across.
The strap should be measuring 2 5/8″ wide by 20 5/8″ tall. If you’ve adjusted the first strap, make sure to work the same number of rows for this second one.
Fasten off. Leaving the last 2 and 1st 2 single crochets unworked (so they are free to fold around the back of the strap), whipstitch the center 4 single crochets to the bag body, lining the right stitch up with the stitch marker located in the 67th stitch.
Weave in initial tail end.
Fold the left and right sides of the strap that were left unworked around the bag strap so they meet in the center of the back of the strap. Whipstitch closed – you may want to evenly place stitch markers to help you line up the stitches. Weave in final end.
Finishing:
Finish gluing in (or sewing in) the canvas bag.
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The black and orange is SO Amazing! perfect bag for Fall and Halloween!
Thanks so much! The orange worked out even better than I imagined.