This is a free crochet pattern and video tutorial showing how to crochet the Mobius Grace Tinley Headband, which is an easy crochet headband worked in your favorite worsted weight yarn, the cute and classic granny stitch pattern and joined with a fun mobius twist in Toddler, Child and Adult sizes.
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Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF on Ravelry by clicking here.
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Our 3rd design for the the 2024 Mystery Earwarmer Crochet a Long, is the Mobius Grace Tinley Headband featuring the cute and classic granny stitch pattern with a fun mobius twist (though you could easily leave off the twist, and seam it up as a simple tube if desired).
The mobius twist looks really cute worn with it on the front over your forehead, but it also is great at the base of your neck if you don’t like to have the extra bulkiness of a headband with the same shaping all the way around.
You can work a crocheted headband in different ways, but I wanted these to be beginner friendly patterns so I’ve chosen a rectangle design. What I love about this design is that after just 4 – 6 rows, you can measure the width and will know right off the bat if it will be the height you want for your headband. Then, you work up the entire length and can just measure with a soft tape measure to make sure the length is correct to fit your head circumference. It takes the guess work out, and doesn’t require any additional work for checking gauge (I know many of us don’t like to do that anyway).
Now, you are right in asking, “I thought we were doing an earwarmer crochet a long?” When it came this beautiful granny stitch pattern, I knew the lacy stitch pattern was not going to serve the same purpose as an ear warmer so I decided to work it in my favorite cotton blend, add in the cute mobius twist and make it an everyday headband. I do have plans to work up a cozy version so stay tuned!
I am running a Washcloth Crochet a Long at the same time as this Earwarmer Crochet a Long, and the stitches are the same on both sides. If you are interested, make sure to check out my Grace Tinley Washcloths.
Grace Tinley Granny Stitch Free Crochet Patterns:
Grace Tinley is one of my series that feature the beautiful, classic granny stitch pattern. This is a beginner friendly series, and this headband is great project to pair with watching your favorite TV show or movie. Use a soft tape measure to measure as you go, and stop at the length desired. If you decide to work in a color block or stripe pattern, you’ll want to count rows just to make sure the blocks are even.
Find accessories and home decor projects on EyeLoveKnots, and wearables and accessories here on Cre8tion Crochet.
Lightweight Mobius Grace Tinley Headband
Grace Tinley Scarf {worked in rows}
Grace Tinley Infinity Scarf {worked in the round}
How do you crochet a granny stitch headband?
For my granny stitch headband, I decided it was best to start with a row of single crochet as a sturdy base for the granny stitch pattern to be joined to after completing the rectangle. To crochet a granny stitch headband with this single crochet row, you’ll start with a chain that is a multiple of 3 plus 2 – that means a number that is evenly divisible by 3 like 6, 9, 12, etc plus 2.
Next, single crochet into the 2nd chain from the hook, and each chain all the way down to the end, finishing with just 1 stitch less than you chained.
Now, we’ll begin the granny stitch pattern. Chain 2, which will count as the 1st stitch of the 1st granny stitch cluster, and turn your work. Work 2 double crochet stitches into the 1st single crochet. Together with the beginning chain 2, this will be our 1st granny stitch cluster of 3 stitches. Skip each of the next 2 single crochet stitches. The repeat starts here: work 3 double crochet stitches into the next single crochet to form our next granny stitch cluster, then skip each of the next 2 single crochet stitches working all the way down the row until you have just 1 stitch left in which you work will 1 double crochet.
For the next row and all the remaining rows, you will start with a chain 2 and turn your work, then work 2 double crochet stitches into the 1st space that is in between the previous rows cluster. The repeat starts here: Skip the 3 stitches of the next granny stitch cluster, and work 3 double crochet stitches into the next space in between the granny stitch cluster working all the way down the row until you have reached the very last cluster in which you will skip 2 stitches of this last granny stitch cluster and work 1 double crochet into the top chain of the beginning chain 2 on that last stitch.
Continue repeating this last row until you have reached a length that is equal to about 2″ smaller than your head circumference, ending on a row that will continue the stitch pattern after joining so the granny stitch pattern is still staggered in between the other rows. This can vary depending on if you will be joining as a simple tube or adding a mobius twist in there, and on your preferred joining method.
What is a mobius twist?
A mobius twist is easy to create on crochet projects that are worked in a simple rectangle. You’ll fold the fabric in half on itself and get ready to join as usual, but before you join, flip one end over, 180 degrees. It adds a cute and simple little half twist in the fabric.
Now, a mobius twist is a great decorative detail on a crocheted headband, ear warmer or shawl, but it can also add functionality in a couple different ways.
If you don’t like to have the extra bulkiness at the base of your neck of a headband with the same shaping all the way around, you can add a mobius twist and wear that section at the base of your neck.
If you like to wear infinity scarf and cowls, you may find when worn, the fabric lays awkwardly and seems a bit bulky. I find a mobius twist on scarves and cowls helps the fabric lay flat, comfortably and naturally.
Why should you wear a headband?
Headbands are great for so many different reasons, but I love them for 2 main reasons: 1.) They are perfect to wear with your hair down to keep your hair out of your face, which drives me crazy. 2.) I hardly ever have my hair down so for me, I wear headbands with my messy bun to dress up my outfit and add a cute statement.
Is a headband and an ear warmer the same thing?
A headband and an ear warmer both describe a tubular accessory that fits over your head and sits at about forehead level, but they are different even though they both could be used to keep your ears warm.
A headband can be used around your forehead or worn on top of your head in your hair and while it could be used to keep your ears warm, it’s usually worn decoratively or to keep your hair out of your eyes and face. Headbands come in many different thicknesses from a very thin elastic band to a thick fabric or elastic band (and materials too including a crown-like band).
An ear warmer comes down around your forehead, is made of a thicker fabric and used to protect your ears from cold weather and winds.
What is the best yarn to use to crochet a headband?
There are many fun yarn options to use to crochet a headband, but my go-to is usually a cotton blend (or a regular cotton paired with an elastic band). For a band that will encompass the circumference of your head alone, you’ll want it to be a blend with another fiber since cotton yarn alone by it’s nature, stretches out and does not bounce back to shape so a secondary fiber helps it to stretch out and stretch back to shape. For many years now, my favorite worsted weight cotton blend has been Berroco Modern Cotton. It wears and machine washes and dries well, feels great against the skin and creates a nice, breathable fabric, is affordable and comes in so many beautiful colors!
You can easily switch this yarn out for your favorite worsted weight yarn! The less cotton in the fiber, the warmer the headband will be with an animal fiber, like wool or alpaca, adding the most warmth.
How do you measure your head for a headband?
Take a soft tape measure and measure your head circumference, or the distance around your head, just above your eyebrows.
What size should a crocheted headband be?
You can easily adjust the height of a headband if you prefer a thinner or thicker band. There aren’t average heights for headbands, it’s all based on personal preference so I’ve included 3 sizes: 1 1/2″, 2 1/4″ and 3 3/8″. I don’t think I’d go thicker for a headband, but you absolutely could if you wanted to.
With my hair down, I felt that the 3 3/8″ was too much as it just gathered under my hair and rolled on itself, so for hair down, I might suggest a thinner band. With my hair up in a bun, I really enjoyed all 3 of these widths!
Overall, you want your finished crocheted headband to be about 2″ smaller than your head circumference.
For Toddler, the finished size of a crocheted headband should be 17 1/2″, Child & Adult Small should be 19 7/8″, and Adult Large should be 20 7/8″.
How do you adjust the height of a headband worked in rows? How do you make a headband thinner or thicker?
This headband is worked widthwise, which is equal to the height of the finished headband. After about 4 – 6 rows, you can measure the width to see how tall the finished headband will be. To alter the width of this pattern, the chain multiple is 3 + 2. That means the total number of chains minus two equals a number that is divisible by 3. An easier way is to take away or add by 3 chains at a time to the chains I’ve provided.
How do you adjust the length of a headband worked in rows?
To adjust the length, simply add or subtract rows making sure to finish so the rows will continue in pattern when seamed using your preferred method. If you are using the Pull Loop Through join method with this mobius twist pattern, you’ll want to finish on an odd row so the last row will be an even row and complete the stitch pattern after it’s flipped over and joined. If you are using a whipstitch or mattress stitch to join your crocheted headband sides, you’ll want to finish on an even row, and then flip and seam.
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What Supplies Do I Need to Crochet an Easy Crochet Mobius Granny Stitch Headband?
- By Width for Each of 3 Sizes: (35, 40, 45), (45, 50, 55), (60, 65, 70) Yards of Worsted Weight Yarn – I used Berroco Modern Cotton in the Elms colorway
- H8/5mm Crochet Hook
- Tapestry Needle
- Soft Tape Measure – Gauge is Essential
Material Notes:
There are many fun yarn options to use to crochet a headband, but my go-to is usually a cotton blend (or a regular cotton paired with an elastic band). For a band that will encompass the circumference of your head alone, you’ll want it to be a blend with another fiber since cotton yarn alone by it’s nature, stretches out and does not bounce back to shape so a secondary fiber helps it to stretch out and stretch back to shape. For many years now, my favorite worsted weight cotton blend has been Berroco Modern Cotton. It wears and machine washes and dries well, feels great against the skin and creates a nice, breathable fabric, is affordable and comes in so many beautiful colors!
You can easily switch this yarn out for your favorite worsted weight yarn! The less cotton in the fiber, the warmer the headband will be with an animal fiber, like wool or alpaca, adding the most warmth.
I love my ergonomic clay hooks from SiennasBowtique and BronzeShepherdStudio! They both have so many fun designs – I have several from each shop because they’re so darn cute and nice to hold onto! We also have lots of beautiful, handcrafted crochet hooks in our Yarn Crafts and Coffee Yarn Shop as well!
Time Spent:
I had the Adult Small size in the 3 3/8″ width finished in just about an hour.
Measurements – Width before Seaming:
The width will be equal to the height of the band.
- 7 Stitches: 1 1/2″ Wide
- 10 Stitches: 2 1/4″ Wide
- 13 Stitches: 3 3/8″ Wide
Usually, I do share the width measurements by size (ie Toddler, Child, Adult), but because there isn’t a set average width of headband by size, any of these widths would be appropriate for any of the sizes depending on what you want for your headband.
With my hair down, I felt that the 3 3/8″ was too much as it just gathered under my hair and rolled on itself, so for hair down, I might suggest a thinner band. With my hair up in a bun, I really enjoyed all 3 of these widths!
Measurements – Length before Seaming:
- Toddler: 17 1/2″ Long
- Child & Adult Small: 19 7/8″ Long
- Adult Large: 20 7/8″ Long
Overall, you want your finished rectangle to be about 2″ smaller than your head circumference.
If you are working the PLT join, your rectangle should be measuring approximately 1/2″ smaller as this is about how much the last row will add.
Gauge – Measured in Pattern:
Use the Measurements section to measure gauge. Gauge itself is not terribly essential, but at least measuring your piece is.
I recommend working up about 4 – 6 rows, then measuring the width to see where you are – this will be the finished height of your headband, and anything in my range is great, but you can always adjust this if you would like a thinner or thicker band.
Heightwise, the most important thing is to measure the finished rectangle to ensure it is the correct size so it will fit well.
Abbreviations (US Terms):
- SC – Single Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- DC – Double Crochet (Photo Tutorial)
- PLT – Pull Loop Through (a join-as-you-go method)
- How to PLT: After DC in current piece, pull up a loop and remove crochet hook, insert hook from the front/outside through the corresponding stitch of the beginning row [your corresponding piece], place loop back onto your crochet hook and bring it down to normal tension then pull the loop through
Pattern Notes:
For this granny stitch headband, I decided it was best to start with a row of single crochet as a sturdy base for the granny stitch pattern to be joined to after completing the rectangle so to alter the width of a granny stitch headband with this single crochet row, you’ll start with a chain that is a multiple of 3 plus 2 – that means a number that is evenly divisible by 3 like 6, 9, 12, etc plus 2. An easier way is to take away or add by 3 chains at a time to the chains I’ve provided.
Beginning chain 2 counts as a double crochet.
To adjust the length, simply add or subtract rows making sure to finish so the rows will continue in pattern when seamed using your preferred method.
I love to use the Pull Loop Through join as I don’t enjoy hand sewing much, but feel free to seam up the ends using your preferred joining method, such as whipstitch or mattress stitch or even slip stitch – so many great methods! You’ll see this split in the instructions as For PLT Join and For Other Join.
Crochet Mobius Granny Stitch Headband Video Tutorial | Mobius Grace Tinley Headband Video Tutorial:
Coming Soon to our YouTube channel!
Crochet Mobius Granny Stitch Headband Written Pattern | Mobius Grace Tinley Headband Written Pattern:
Choose your desired width, aka the height of the band, based on your personal preference.
1 1/2″ Width:
Chain 8. SC into the 2nd chain, and each chain across. (7 SC)
R2: Chain 2, turn. 2 DC into the 1st SC, skip each of the next 2 SC, (3 DC into the next SC, skip each of the next 2 SC) across, 1 DC into the last SC. (7 SC)
Proceed to Row 3 and Remaining Rows.
2 1/4″ Width:
Chain 11. SC into the 2nd chain, and each chain across. (10 SC)
R2: Chain 2, turn. 2 DC into the 1st SC, skip each of the next 2 SC, (3 DC into the next SC, skip each of the next 2 SC) across, 1 DC into the last SC. (10 SC)
Proceed to Row 3 and Remaining Rows.
3 3/8″ Width:
Chain 14. SC into the 2nd chain, and each chain across. (13 SC)
R2: Chain 2, turn. 2 DC into the 1st SC, skip each of the next 2 SC, (3 DC into the next SC, skip each of the next 2 SC) across, 1 DC into the last SC. (13 SC)
Proceed to Row 3 and Remaining Rows.
Row 3 and Remaining Rows For Other Join Method
Toddler Size:
R3 – 34: 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the next cluster, (3 DC into the next space, skip the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Your headband should measure about 17 1/2″ in length.
Any side can be the right side (aka front) or wrong side (aka back).
Fold the rectangle in half with the right sides facing each other. Take the top layer and flip it over 180 degrees. Now you will see the twist in your fabric. Bring the two ends together and seam them up.
My favorite join method is the pull loop through join so I can crochet the last row and join to the first row at the same time and avoid hand sewing, but some other joining methods include whipstitch, mattress stitch and slip stitch, just to name a few – feel free to use your favorite!
Weave in crochet ends to finish.
Child & Adult Small Size:
R3 – 40: 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the next cluster, (3 DC into the next space, skip the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Your headband should measure about 19 7/8″ in length.
Any side can be the right side (aka front) or wrong side (aka back).
Fold the rectangle in half with the right sides facing each other. Take the top layer and flip it over 180 degrees. Now you will see the twist in your fabric. Bring the two ends together and seam them up.
My favorite join method is the pull loop through join so I can crochet the last row and join to the first row at the same time and avoid hand sewing, but some other joining methods include whipstitch, mattress stitch and slip stitch, just to name a few – feel free to use your favorite!
Weave in crochet ends to finish.
Adult Large Size:
R3 – 42: 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the next cluster, (3 DC into the next space, skip the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Your headband should measure about 20 7/8″ in length.
Any side can be the right side (aka front) or wrong side (aka back).
Fold the rectangle in half with the right sides facing each other. Take the top layer and flip it over 180 degrees. Now you will see the twist in your fabric. Bring the two ends together and seam them up.
My favorite join method is the pull loop through join so I can crochet the last row and join to the first row at the same time and avoid hand sewing, but some other joining methods include whipstitch, mattress stitch and slip stitch, just to name a few – feel free to use your favorite!
Weave in crochet ends to finish.
Row 3 and Remaining Rows For PLT Join
Toddler Size:
R3 – 33: 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the next cluster, (3 DC into the next space, skip the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Your headband should measure about 17″ in length.
R34: Chain 1, turn. Keeping this side facing up, fold the rectangle under onto itself evenly, and then flip the bottom layer over 180 degrees to create the twist in your fabric. Chain 2 as normal, PLT into the corresponding stitch of the beginning row, DC into the 1st space on the current row as normal, PLT into the corresponding stitch of the beginning row, DC again into the same space on the current row, PLT into the corresponding stitch of the beginning row. Continue to work down the row in pattern skipping the next cluster and proceeding to work 3 DC into the next space simply joining with the PLT method to the beginning row after each stitch worked into the current row. At the end of the row, you will finish with 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2, and PLT into the last corresponding stitch of the beginning row.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Child & Adult Small Size:
R3 – 39: 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the next cluster, (3 DC into the next space, skip the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Your headband should measure about 19 3/8″ in length.
R40: Chain 1, turn. Keeping this side facing up, fold the rectangle under onto itself evenly, and then flip the bottom layer over 180 degrees to create the twist in your fabric. Chain 2 as normal, PLT into the corresponding stitch of the beginning row, DC into the 1st space on the current row as normal, PLT into the corresponding stitch of the beginning row, DC again into the same space on the current row, PLT into the corresponding stitch of the beginning row. Continue to work down the row in pattern skipping the next cluster and proceeding to work 3 DC into the next space simply joining with the PLT method to the beginning row after each stitch worked into the current row. At the end of the row, you will finish with 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2, and PLT into the last corresponding stitch of the beginning row.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Adult Large Size:
R3 – 41: 2 DC into the 1st space, skip the next cluster, (3 DC into the next space, skip the next cluster) across, 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2.
Your headband should measure about 20 3/8″ in length.
R42: Chain 1, turn. Keeping this side facing up, fold the rectangle under onto itself evenly, and then flip the bottom layer over 180 degrees to create the twist in your fabric. Chain 2 as normal, PLT into the corresponding stitch of the beginning row, DC into the 1st space on the current row as normal, PLT into the corresponding stitch of the beginning row, DC again into the same space on the current row, PLT into the corresponding stitch of the beginning row. Continue to work down the row in pattern skipping the next cluster and proceeding to work 3 DC into the next space simply joining with the PLT method to the beginning row after each stitch worked into the current row. At the end of the row, you will finish with 1 DC into the top of the beginning chain 2, and PLT into the last corresponding stitch of the beginning row.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Photo Tutorial of How to Create a Mobius Twist – Shown on Mobius Haylee Earwarmer:
Fold the rectangle in half with the right sides facing each other.
Take the top layer and flip it over 180 degrees.
Now you will see the twist in your fabric. Bring the two ends together and seam them up.
My favorite join method is the pull loop through join so I can crochet the last row and join to the first row at the same time and avoid hand sewing, but some other joining methods include whipstitch, mattress stitch and slip stitch, just to name a few – feel free to use your favorite!
Weave in ends.
Pull Loop Through Join Photo Tutorial – Shown on the Mobius Haylee Earwarmer:
Step 1: Work the first stitch as normal on the current row. Shown is a half double crochet, but yours will be a chain 2.
Step 2: Pull up a loop (so you don’t lose the stitch). I usually hold this stitch in between my left hand thumb and index finger as I go through the process.
Step 3: Remove your crochet hook.
Step 4: Insert your crochet hook into the corresponding stitch from the layer you’re joining to working from the outside in.
Step 5: Put the loop from the first stitch back onto your crochet hook.
Step 6: Pull the loop down to normal tension.
Step 7: Pull the loop through the corresponding stitch.
Step 8: 1st stitch is complete.
Continue the process down the row for each stitch, then fasten off and weave in ends.
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